Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I have always wanted to own one of these dream machines, and I have finally decided to take the plunge. Could someone tell me some good pointers or questions to ask . I have two cars that sort of interest me. One is a 94 - R33 GTRVSpec and the other is a 95GTRVSpec.

The 94 car has a Fully Rebuilt Engine Including Forged Pistons and New Turbos. Done around 78000Kms. Is it true that because skylines get thrashed, that the sump runs dry causing the engines to cork up? Also is a rebuilt engine neccessarily a bad thing??. This car has had multiple owners in Australia. Imported in 2003

The other car has done 100000+ kms and acording to the owner was imported last year . I will get that checked. The guy hardly drives it 50 kms/week. It is clean and has never had anything done to it.

What would you guys do. I am really excited and cant wait to hear your opinions.

Thanks in advance guys

Shiv

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325258-need-helpbuying-a-r33-gtr-vspec/
Share on other sites

R33 GTR began production in 1995.

If you are unsure about buying a car, depending on where you live there are plenty of workshops around that just focus on imports.

Ask the seller to take the car there, get a full inspection done, anything thats wrong with the car get the seller to remove from the price.

All cars get thrashed it just depends on whos driving it, if you plan on "thrashing" your GTR then take the appropriate steps like oil mods and a good tune/check up before hand. Theres nothing worse then buying a "rebuilt" car doing 200kms in it then spinning a bearing and needing a rebuild because u didnt buy that bigger/baffled sump your mechanic reccomended.

Edited by Skyrin3

Hi Shiv, welcome to the forum..

Have a read of this link, it outlines what to look for when buying a skyline.

I cannot stress how important it is to have the car checked over by a pro, its only a few hundred dollars compared to a 6-10k rebuild!

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/bu...e-f-t35129.html

Cheers and good luck with your search.

Johno

I have always wanted to own one of these dream machines, and I have finally decided to take the plunge. Could someone tell me some good pointers or questions to ask.

Great car to own, a real weapon. Obvious question is why are you selling and what mods have been done to the car and who and when were the mods done.

As others have said the R33 GTR started in 1995 so your first car described is either a fake or a typo.

Personally if I purchased another performance car that is 10+ years old, I'd get one modified already as there's so much cost involved in replacing old worn parts. I would also look at the for sales section of this forum as a primary place to buy a car, more owners on this forum care about their cars, hence they join a forum to lean about their car and their cars are in general a better quality to those who don't care to learn about their cars.

Another to look for is a mature owner or at least a owner with money. To many kids buy skylines with no money and fail to maintain them.

Where are you in Australia so the forum can suggest possible cars to have a look at.

Great car to own, a real weapon. Obvious question is why are you selling and what mods have been done to the car and who and when were the mods done.

As others have said the R33 GTR started in 1995 so your first car described is either a fake or a typo.

Personally if I purchased another performance car that is 10+ years old, I'd get one modified already as there's so much cost involved in replacing old worn parts. I would also look at the for sales section of this forum as a primary place to buy a car, more owners on this forum care about their cars, hence they join a forum to lean about their car and their cars are in general a better quality to those who don't care to learn about their cars.

Another to look for is a mature owner or at least a owner with money. To many kids buy skylines with no money and fail to maintain them.

Where are you in Australia so the forum can suggest possible cars to have a look at.

Thank you everyone. I will definitely take all your advice on-board. I am in Brisbane and would not mind someone contacting me if they have a well kept car. I will goo through the thread sent by JZee....thanx once again

Hi Shiv, welcome to the forum..

Have a read of this link, it outlines what to look for when buying a skyline.

I cannot stress how important it is to have the car checked over by a pro, its only a few hundred dollars compared to a 6-10k rebuild!

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/bu...e-f-t35129.html

Cheers and good luck with your search.

Johno

Hi Jay-Z,

I have found a car that interests me. It is a GTR V-Spec R33...very clean...not many mods done...95 model....done around 107000, only one year old in Australia, single australian owner. How much would you roughly think it would be for. A quick response would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance

  • 1 month later...

Congrats on the purchase, I have had my 32 for just over 12 months, and it still gives me a tingle (and a little mongrel) every time I drive it, and I will say it...........................

pics

or

:laugh:

Hi Guys,

I have finally made my purchase and am absolutely ecstatic. Thanks a lot guys for your help. I am now a proud owner of a R33 GTR V-SPec. :P

Congrats! :P

Needless to say, you're loving it. Even slept in it? :ermm:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...