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Running Soundstream SST6.9 6x9's.

150w(RMS) rated.

And they sound like it too.

Custom install in the back of my R33.

Didn't want a Sub.

Had them @ 80Hz and tried to get them lower.

They pump all the way to almost Max Volume.

Clicky

Will get pics up once I carpet the Rear Tray.

RJ.

yes too low, and btw 6x9's :)

they won't play that low properly ,doesnt matter what there rated at ,they make 1000watt 6x9's now

lets see you want sub bass but no sub?, fiberglass a sealed enclosure under the 6x9's or bite the bullet and get a sub, even a good quality 6" in a designed box will hit lower and harder then a 6x9

Too Low? ok.

I've turned them back to 80Hz. Obviously now the Bass is not that LOW..but still considerably Bassy and loud.

Best thing about it is ALL of the music stays in the car. Not a beep heard outside.

Also the gains are set @ DMM Levels.

So 150w (from AMP) x 3ohms (Speakers resistance) is 450w. Square that = 21.213v

I went with 20v to be safe.

Increased gains using 1kHz test tone till it read just over 20v, couldn't get perfect.

Hasn't clipped yet, and bass is very smooth and fills the car.

Any thing wrong here?

I ust want to run them safe thats all, but also loud and clean.

Too Low? ok.

I've turned them back to 80Hz. Obviously now the Bass is not that LOW..but still considerably Bassy and loud.

Best thing about it is ALL of the music stays in the car. Not a beep heard outside.

Also the gains are set @ DMM Levels.

So 150w (from AMP) x 3ohms (Speakers resistance) is 450w. Square that = 21.213v

I went with 20v to be safe.

Increased gains using 1kHz test tone till it read just over 20v, couldn't get perfect.

Hasn't clipped yet, and bass is very smooth and fills the car.

Any thing wrong here?

I ust want to run them safe thats all, but also loud and clean.

Well lets see, speakers don't stay at 3ohm resistance, it is a static measurement of the coil in the magnet gap.

at different freq. the resistance changes until the coil leaves the magnet gap, the coil resistance also fluctuates up or down depending on temp of the wire coil.

not sure how you figure the sound stays in the car, does it have a dynamat type product installed ? if not then you can hear it , unless its alike a Rolls Royce ?

are you running electronic crossovers and passive ? do you know about phase shift if so ? and DB rolloff at f3 ?

and not sure why you would use a 1k tone for bass, 1k is the tone babies cry at which is why they murder your ears but it's not even in the sub/bass freq range. its in the mids range

have you used a RTA on the car I would gather it is full of holes in the freq range you describe? using a RTA, and some other tools of the trade you can see the ohm loads while on power at all ranges ? do you know how to build a Zobel Network to keep the freq/ohm load stable?

and you never mention what volt levels your head unit supplies to the amp ? and how much distortion at that level ? the signal out is only as good as the signal in ???

your calculations don't consider loss due to heat on the amp, Class AB or D or ? if the amp produces 150w at 4ohms its more then likely to produce around 250-300w max per channel at 2ohms , your calculations would be way off unless if a cheater style amp that quadruples power at lower ohm loads

without all the details best guess would be your amp pushes about 175-190watts per channel to the speaker might be RMS or Max depending on the amp, quality if its CEA certified power or made in china claims for power output ?

well I think we went way over the top for most users here. but really they are just 6x9's ..lol not the bet for SQ comps. at high volume..lol

That is a lot of tuning.

Mine sound fine and past my expectations at the moment.

I've left them @ 80hz on HPF.

I got my tuning advice from several sites claiming this is the way to tune speakers.

Amp is CEA certified. 600wRMS 4 Channel @ 2ohms. 150wRMS per Channel @ 2ohms and 300wRMS Bridged @ 4ohms.

Amp

Whats your advice for good quality Bass from these?

They came first in here.

Cheers.

FYI...That Jensen Amp only puts out 60 watts x4 @4ohms not 600w rms and 90watts at 2ohms

CEA Power Ratings

Power Output: 60 watts RMS X 4 channels into 4-ohms @ <

1% THD+N

Frequency Response: 10Hz to 100Hz (-3dB)

Signal to Noise Ratio: 100dBA below reference (Reference:

1 watt, 4-ohms)

Additional Power Output: 90 watts RMS X 4 channels into

2-ohms @ < 1% THD+N; 180 watts RMS X 2 channels

(bridged stereo) into 4-ohms @ < 1% THD+N

Dynamic Power: 600 watts x 2 (bridged stereo) into 4-ohms

@ < 1%THD+N

Dimensions: 280mm X 65mm X 365mm\

so your actually slightly underdriving the 6x9's at full volume and creating distortion on the top end of the power scale at your crossover freq. if you look at the manual if provides the graphs of distortion and watts at each freq.

to setup amp gains on a basic level you can read this

Soundstream site

to make them sound better ? a baffle/sealed enclosure under them with polyfill , setup with the right xover point, don't use the OEM grills for the car

create a spacer plate to aim the sound better, using a RTA or laptop with mic

you can even use your iphone with free RTA software, bit crude but better then nothing

hope this helps a bit

cheers

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