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all questions are answered with

if you want it and its cheap, the only thing u can do is get it inspected by racv

nuff said

A good point, but if you want a more detailed inspection I would reccomend State Roads, they are a fair bit more expensive but you get what you pay for and get a very detailed report.

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there is always a one off deal that seems amazing that you have to move fast one, i am always told this by my dad whenever i buy something lol. but don't buy something that you can't test drive first.

maintenance is more expensive than for, say, a camry lol. depends what you compare it to. you should use decent oil (tho with na you'll be happy with a good mineral one) and 10000km changes will be ok, see the oil thread if you want to see what people tend to do. for example, a service for mine was more than double than what i paid for my cold camry, and it needed lotsa crap done, needless to say i do it all myself (not complaining, its good to learn). tyres are more expensive than normal cars, and only go up with the coolness of your rims haha

fuel economy is ok, there are threads dedicated to this though so have a bit of a look round. in my r34 gtt at a modest 110km/h it's at 3100rpm (urgh) nice to be in boost territory for overtaking but that many rpm isn't great for petrol.

many, many, many people on here have reliable 300rwkw skylines, but the more power and reliability you want the less reliable it will be. for over 200rwkw you're looking at a turbo change which is a lot of dough, and you also wand damn good exhaust and intercooler kit etc, at least a grand each for those, and turbo kit will be more than double that.

good luck with it mate, just make sure you don't buy a bomb, have a good look through the for sale section on sau, people tend to offer a lower price on the forums than on carsales or trading post

Cheers for the info mate! What are the extra things to do when servicing? I'd be inclined to do it myself, so I'll need to know for when the time comes. 3100 at 110? Have you got a lower than normal ratio LSD? I bet you've got tons down low if it revs that high at 110. Where do they safely rev to? Also this is just out of curiosity, what do they top out at (your 34 gtt) if it revs that high 100?

I'm so excited to get one, but I am inclined to wait if I can get a better deal... I might even wait till I'm off my P's and get a 34 gtt. I know if I get a 33 now I'd want a turbo'd 34 later, and I can't justify buying a natro 34 if it's such a hassle to upgrade it to the turbo spec later on.

Thanks for all your replies everyone!

Cheers for the info mate! What are the extra things to do when servicing? I'd be inclined to do it myself, so I'll need to know for when the time comes. 3100 at 110? Have you got a lower than normal ratio LSD? I bet you've got tons down low if it revs that high at 110. Where do they safely rev to? Also this is just out of curiosity, what do they top out at (your 34 gtt) if it revs that high 100?

I'm so excited to get one, but I am inclined to wait if I can get a better deal... I might even wait till I'm off my P's and get a 34 gtt. I know if I get a 33 now I'd want a turbo'd 34 later, and I can't justify buying a natro 34 if it's such a hassle to upgrade it to the turbo spec later on.

Thanks for all your replies everyone!

yeah going +t seems to be popular but really difficult.

that sort of freeway rpm is normal from all the folks ive talked to. these are sports engines so they rev happily. and the top speed limit in japan is pretty close to here so the cars were designed with that in mind. where does it top out? not sure to be honest mate haven't tested it! haha, probably 240 or so? 5th gear will redline up at 250-260 i think.

ok on servicing, every 5000km i change oil, filter, plugs, clean air filter, and that's pretty much it. still learning how to do a lot of stuff.

attached is the r34 service schedule

R34servicemanual.pdf

yeah going +t seems to be popular but really difficult.

that sort of freeway rpm is normal from all the folks ive talked to. these are sports engines so they rev happily. and the top speed limit in japan is pretty close to here so the cars were designed with that in mind. where does it top out? not sure to be honest mate haven't tested it! haha, probably 240 or so? 5th gear will redline up at 250-260 i think.

ok on servicing, every 5000km i change oil, filter, plugs, clean air filter, and that's pretty much it. still learning how to do a lot of stuff.

attached is the r34 service schedule

Cheers mate, pretty regular service. Did you add the turbo later, or buy a GTT?

Does anyone know of a shop that do drive in, drive out turbo conversions?

Cheers mate, pretty regular service. Did you add the turbo later, or buy a GTT?

Does anyone know of a shop that do drive in, drive out turbo conversions?

doubt they're that common but it can be done. there are some horror stories about mechanics screwing people over saying they'll take care of it all, and just bolting a turbo on. it'll be cheaper in the end to buy the gtst/gtt. you need to install turbo, intercooler, ecu (?) and heaps of other stuff, but you'll still have to change a bunch of other things like brakes and maybe gearbox and/or diff to get to the same spec as the stock turbo

mine is a gtt. it's a great car, very versatile, i love it. it's got a mega-drone tho with the exhaust i bought it with lol, its on the fix list.

i strongly recommend buying from the forums, i didn't but would have if i knew i had the choice at the time.

doubt they're that common but it can be done. there are some horror stories about mechanics screwing people over saying they'll take care of it all, and just bolting a turbo on. it'll be cheaper in the end to buy the gtst/gtt. you need to install turbo, intercooler, ecu (?) and heaps of other stuff, but you'll still have to change a bunch of other things like brakes and maybe gearbox and/or diff to get to the same spec as the stock turbo

mine is a gtt. it's a great car, very versatile, i love it. it's got a mega-drone tho with the exhaust i bought it with lol, its on the fix list.

i strongly recommend buying from the forums, i didn't but would have if i knew i had the choice at the time.

Yeah, the FS section has some amazing cars. The smart option seems to wait and get a 34 GTT once I'm off my P's, but I am really antsy to get into one. Maybe if I can move my cars and find a cheaper (but not dodgy) 33 and then I can move into a 34 GTT later. If I'm buying a turbo'd skyline I'd stretch the wallet and go for a 34, for sure.

There are a lot of things you need to look out for personally i would get the car checked out by RACV or your local mechanic its worth the money they will give you a run down on what's wrong with the car and what needs to be done RWC etc... to me it seems suss NA's normally go for 7-11k depending on there condition, buyer etc... It seems to me like it was an auto converted to a Manual like Kris stated.

It could have also been a GTST with the turbo removed hense the 5 studs. I would get the vehicle VIN Number, Rego (if any), Engine number and get a history check done even ring up Queensland transport and they should be able to tell you if its had any registered accidents, if the vin / engine match etc... its best to do your research or you might buy a lemon and it will cost you more than waiting for the right NA to pop up i waited 9 months to find the right car and did a mechanic check on 7 cars in the process.

Id also take into consideration the cost of Insurance it's not cheap for P-Platers especially when you drive an Import.

Edited by DarkRyda
There are a lot of things you need to look out for personally i would get the car checked out by RACV or your local mechanic its worth the money they will give you a run down on what's wrong with the car and what needs to be done RWC etc... to me it seems suss NA's normally go for 7-11k depending on there condition, buyer etc... It seems to me like it was an auto converted to a Manual like Kris stated.

It could have also been a GTST with the turbo removed hense the 5 studs. I would get the vehicle VIN Number, Rego (if any), Engine number and get a history check done even ring up Queensland transport and they should be able to tell you if its had any registered accidents, if the vin / engine match etc... its best to do your research or you might buy a lemon and it will cost you more than waiting for the right NA to pop up i waited 9 months to find the right car and did a mechanic check on 7 cars in the process.

Id also take into consideration the cost of Insurance it's not cheap for P-Platers especially when you drive an Import.

Cheers for the info mate, it never occured to me that it could have been a GTST with the turbo removed. Yeah insurance is a bitch, but I'd probably get it registered in my grandfathers name and have me down as a driver on the policy.

I potentially have some good news (for me) and some bad news (for all you P plater loathers out there, haha). I was reading the Sunday Mail up here and P platers will be able to jump straight onto their open licence if they partake in a defensive driving course. I wish they had introduced this sooner, as I only have a year and a half to go. But still, a defensive driving course would be extremely valuable and it still cuts a year and a half off my "sentence" haha.

Might get a GT-T afterall :)

Well the dealer rang me today, just as I thought he would. The person allegedly backed out of the sale. Anyway I had a chance to have more of a chat to him, questioned him about the 5 studs, the speedo etc. It turns out that his son bought that particular skyline with no engine/box and had an N/A GTS-4. The GTS-4 engine went into the chassis with a 5 speed box. Apparently the sump is different or something (dealer told me) on the GTS-4 engine.

The car WAS a turbo, the chassis plate says 25DET. I rang QLD transport and they said if it isn't mod plated and has had a turbo removed, I can drive it (which I doubt) and told me to ring the police (which I will). He said he got a RWC for it with the non turbo engine and will be able to get another one if I'm keen. I am pretty sure there's nothing mechanically wrong with the car.

He started it up and it sounded really good (stock exhaust so really quiet) but extremely smooth. I got some photo's of some things....

Photo0867.jpg

Photo0868.jpg

Photo0869.jpg

this looks a bit suss, I asked him what it was and he said it was surface rust repair. Looks like a lot of bog for surface rust, but it's the only spot on the car with bog.

Photo0870.jpg

Photo0871.jpg

Photo0872.jpg

Photo0878.jpg

The car's jacked up because I was trying to get a look at the engine number to see if it was an NA engine and not a turbo'd engine with the turbo removed. Couldn't see it from the top because the plate was grimy as. Couldn't see it from the bottom because the down pipe was in the way. I called it a cat because I didn't realise the cat was further back (not a skyline genius) and got raped by some people over the phone giving me advice. Live and learn I guess lol.

EDIT

The cluster pic is there because it must have the GTS4 cluster in it as it says 4wd. The mrs noticed that, :)

Edited by kawasakirider
  • 2 weeks later...

your missus has a good eye, doubt i would have noticed...

some for sale cars you might be interested in

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/19...-2-t301817.html

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...90-t326544.html

Edited by Galois
your missus has a good eye, doubt i would have noticed...

some for sale cars you might be interested in

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/19...-2-t301817.html

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...90-t326544.html

Thanks for the links mate, that 34 is heaps nice. Wish I had the cash, or someone would buy my cars. Very, very nice. The Mrs does have a keen eye, she picked me hahaha.

Edit, didn't see it was an auto. Does the 34 auto have buttons on the wheel to shift up and down? That may make it more appealing, but I really would love a 5 speed.

This one seems good :)

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...#ht_2113wt_1139

It was only like $9,800 or so.

Edited by kawasakirider

Yeh they got the paddle shifters.

You did notice on the plate it said RB25DET? so obviously was turbo, if it was auto it has a seperate ecu for the gearbox just so u know.

I was lucky enough to find an N/A r33, great handling, good first car, easy to work on and if you ever have problems thankfully the gods created SAU so u can find an answer.

I paid $8500, with 18s, headunit but other than that stock with 150 000. If u got any other questions feel free to ask :bunny:

Yeh they got the paddle shifters.

You did notice on the plate it said RB25DET? so obviously was turbo, if it was auto it has a seperate ecu for the gearbox just so u know.

I was lucky enough to find an N/A r33, great handling, good first car, easy to work on and if you ever have problems thankfully the gods created SAU so u can find an answer.

I paid $8500, with 18s, headunit but other than that stock with 150 000. If u got any other questions feel free to ask :bunny:

Only other question is.... Pics? Lol. Yeah I know if it was an auto it has a seperate TCU (same as falcons) but if it has had a manual conversion doesn't the TCU and auto ECU get pissed off in favor of a manual ECU?

Also, yeah, I know it was a DET, that's why I put the pic of the plate up.

Really keen on getting a 34 GT-T once I'm off my P's or maybe even a GT before I get off them and sell it for a GT-T later on.

Whack up some pics of your 33 man.

If you feel that the engine bay or the car itself has been bogged in some areas simply get a magnet and see if it sticks to the chassis if it doesn't that area has been bogged if it does that means the rust has just been sprayed over without being treated etc...

to me, the car looks to clean on the outside but under bonnet looks messy, i say full respray (especially if dad owns a car yard). also car has too many swapped bits on it. dodgy dodgy dodgy. look at something else

Agreed 100% all that bog on the shock tower tells me its been in a big shunt and they couldnt straighten it.

i think your all missing the point, why the f*k would there be surface rust under the bonnet to begin with? did the owner drive around with the bonnet open? and then, a big rock hit the top of the strut tower, ripping the paint off and denting it?

and if it just had some paint peeled off for whatever chance, why would it need bog to repair surface rust? cos it IS bog by the way, just by looking at it you can tell.

its a lemon, say bye bye

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