Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Aiight, most of Y'all hated my last rims. said i need something more sporty. Can you guys help a brother out. I want Chrome 18" wheels for less than $1750. I need some suggestions. Sporty is cool. But i'm looking for sporty/pimp. I wanted to go to tempetyres so if anyone can see any chrome 18"s on there that look better. post a pic. I will check em out. Peace

Dip

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326224-rimz-ii/
Share on other sites

I don't think it was the style as much as the fact they were chrome last time, sorry but I think chrome rims were so last year, or was it the year before? :down:

When I walk into a rim shop I rarely see a rim that looks the goods any more. Jap rims for Jap cars...

That being said, it's your hard earned so spend it on what you like, just don't skimp on tyres.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326224-rimz-ii/#findComment-5311702
Share on other sites

Hey buddy, if you have your mind sent on Chromes then get them. Me and most of the people here wouldn't go for it, but it's your car and you have to be the one to appreciate it.

Also think about getting 19"... I think 18" are a bit small for our cars.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326224-rimz-ii/#findComment-5311816
Share on other sites

To give you some constructive feedback, I don't think you can slap a set of really chrome wheels on a stock car and have it look awesome. In my opinion the car needs to be balls-to-the-floor, preferably with a chunky body-kit and your wheel offset needs to be pretty flush with the guard...there's nothing worse than sunken chrome wheels.

If you want to go down the chrome-path, don't go to Tempe Tyres and buy the cheap looking wheels. At least get a classic Japanese chromed rim. You can get a good price on a decent set of second-hand wheels from J-imports (www.j-imports.com). Problem is you're in Sydney and they are here in Melbourne, but nothing a weekend road-trip won't solve. If you're after $1750 for wheels, then your budget for wheels + tyres should be at least $2,500. The added bonus is a brand-name Japanese wheel will not depreciate in value at the same rate as a Tempe-brand wheel.

In your price-range you could get these Work Meisters - very classic wheel, one of the all-time greats.

S1Chrome.jpg

SSR Professors SP1s in Shadow Chrome - Also very classic wheel.

SSRPair3.jpg

Work VS KF - meh not to my liking personally but very chrome indeed.

VSKFShadow2.jpg

Volk GT7 Noble - these will look great but you'll need to do some work to get them to fit, lowered, cambered, stretched tyre, maybe even lip the guard.

GT7x4.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326224-rimz-ii/#findComment-5311897
Share on other sites

Check here if you want pimp: http://www.tempetyres.com.au/products.asp?...ages+%2D+Chrome

Personally i like the Alexia Gesalt 3, Dolce DC-12, GV-2 and Incubus Paranormal. But thats only my taste, also as mentioned before see if you can save a little more cash and go 19s :/

Edited by TUFF_350
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326224-rimz-ii/#findComment-5311989
Share on other sites

To give you some constructive feedback, I don't think you can slap a set of really chrome wheels on a stock car and have it look awesome. In my opinion the car needs to be balls-to-the-floor, preferably with a chunky body-kit and your wheel offset needs to be pretty flush with the guard...there's nothing worse than sunken chrome wheels.

If you want to go down the chrome-path, don't go to Tempe Tyres and buy the cheap looking wheels. At least get a classic Japanese chromed rim. You can get a good price on a decent set of second-hand wheels from J-imports (www.j-imports.com). Problem is you're in Sydney and they are here in Melbourne, but nothing a weekend road-trip won't solve. If you're after $1750 for wheels, then your budget for wheels + tyres should be at least $2,500. The added bonus is a brand-name Japanese wheel will not depreciate in value at the same rate as a Tempe-brand wheel.

In your price-range you could get these Work Meisters - very classic wheel, one of the all-time greats.

S1Chrome.jpg

SSR Professors SP1s in Shadow Chrome - Also very classic wheel.

SSRPair3.jpg

Work VS KF - meh not to my liking personally but very chrome indeed.

VSKFShadow2.jpg

Volk GT7 Noble - these will look great but you'll need to do some work to get them to fit, lowered, cambered, stretched tyre, maybe even lip the guard.

GT7x4.jpg

all those j4p wheels are polished...not chrome.

If I had to pick out of tempe, it'll probably be the zenetti pro or kaotic ...or xp dirty dogs... again out of those choices....the stock 18" on a V35 would trump

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326224-rimz-ii/#findComment-5312518
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, also, forgot to add these photos I believe.
    • Thought i'd update on this. I was able to get in contact with Craig Lieberman and later on Darryl Alison (owner of Kaizo Industries). Darryl was able to help me verify that my car was in fact one of theirs and is helping me find more info on mine !
    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
×
×
  • Create New...