Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Well I inspected a r32 gts-t sedan today which was in good condition with a standard rb20det and 5stud but auto.. Anyway nothing was said about the car being a gts-4 until i saw the 4wd light on the dash (even had a gts-t badge).. I was pritty unsure about the car after that only cause i want a rwd, can this be taken out? is it worth having a defuser switch? how much more extra weight is it?....

Basically I need some awnsers on the disadvantages and advantages about it gts-ts and gts-4s, any advice would be great..

Thanks..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326303-need-help-with-gts-t-or-gts-4/
Share on other sites

r32 gts4 is the 'baby' gtr, the production got axed in r33 because it puts the r33 gts4 too close to the gtr, and so on r33 it is only given an NA engine...

based on that, I'll leave it to you to judge whether you've found a rare gem or a fat pig

I own a gts4 4 door, from memory it weighs about 50kgs more than a gts-t. Seems a bit strange that it is labelled a gts-t. I would check under the car to see if there is a transfer case next to the gearbox, on the right side. Also if the 4wd light is constantly on, that means there is something wrong with the 4wd system. You can read the error codes from the attessa ecu in the boot of the car. If it is a gts4 it should also have the attessa bottle in the right hand side of the boot.

Advantages? Well it does give a bit more traction when you are flooring it, as torque is being diverted to the front wheels and it's not all going to the back.

Making it a bit safer

Disadvantages? More stuff to go wrong and fix.

I own a gts4 4 door, from memory it weighs about 50kgs more than a gts-t. Seems a bit strange that it is labelled a gts-t. I would check under the car to see if there is a transfer case next to the gearbox, on the right side. Also if the 4wd light is constantly on, that means there is something wrong with the 4wd system. You can read the error codes from the attessa ecu in the boot of the car. If it is a gts4 it should also have the attessa bottle in the right hand side of the boot.

Advantages? Well it does give a bit more traction when you are flooring it, as torque is being diverted to the front wheels and it's not all going to the back.

Making it a bit safer

Disadvantages? More stuff to go wrong and fix.

Yepp it had the transfer case next to the box also had the attessa bottle where u said it would be, and i asked why the light comes on, he said when the defuser is off its telling u theirs a prob with the 4wd meaning its switched over to 2wd.. which is a good thing all n all butt like u said about the disadvantages thats the only thing stopping me as im coming from a s12 and s13 and still want a rwd car not that i hate 4wd but i just prefer a rwd car..

This guy should let you read the codes. I don't know what he means about defuser.

If you are still interested in the car, stick your head in the boot and there should be a silver box under the parcel shelf. It has a red led which should be flashing codes in a loop. From memory it will just repeated flash small dashes, and will leave a gap between each code. Probably best to grab a pen and paper for this. You'll know once it's looped.

This should at least tell you what errors the 4wd system is throwing up. Multiples things can go wrong, G sensor, speed sensor, ETS pressure switch etc etc.

The good thing with the 32 4wd system is you can just keep it in 2wd mode by pulling the fuse, so it's no constant 4wd like a 33 or 34.

And if you really want you could probably get a shop to convert the car to rwd, or do that yourself. Just depends on if you think the car is a good deal for what it is.

I'd also check the rear of the car out if it has a gts-t badge on it, might of been in a rear ender and they bought a gts-t boot to replace the stuffed one.

I bought a 4-door gts-t from japan with an RB26 and it turned out to be a gts-4 :P.

I thought it was always a GTS-4? Not sure myself what would need to be done to convert to rwd Best to ask a shop. I think it's mainly change the sump, pull the driveshafts, change the gearbox.

Your 4 door gives me Inspiration Sarumatix ;)

Frankly, if you don't want a car with AWD, then don't buy a car with AWD. Simple as that!

The good thing with the 32 4wd system is you can just keep it in 2wd mode by pulling the fuse, so it's no constant 4wd like a 33 or 34.
Nissan AWD is NOT constant AWD - it is an intelligent AWD system, that runs as RWD until the computer detects a particular condition and switches to AWD mode.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...