Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi was wondering if anyone else knows whats goin on here.

Was driving home from tafe this arvo and, noticed as i was in 2nd gear whilst flooring it, from about 4500-5000rpm onwards it feels like someones just pressed the brake pedal a little bit. as in the car really loses its momentum and somewhat slows down for some reason, and only in the higher rev range. Not quite sure how else i can explain it but i can certainly feel the loss of g-force when it happens :laugh: .

has,

fmic

pod (just checked it then and, looks like theres a bit of dirt in the crevices)

HKS EBC 12psi

splitfire coilpacks

intank bosch fuel pump

screamer pipe

xforce cat

3 1/2in all the way with cannon

newish spark plugs

HD clutch

oil + filter done a month ago

using stock ECU and stock turbo, so its running pretty rich atm.

if anyone has any idea what the go is, feedback will be appreciated. :)

this is what i was leaning towards also. a good ECU and tune will sort it out ya reckon?

Definately. I bought a power fc and was blown away at the amount of torque and response increase in every gear.Best thing you can do to take full advantage of your mods.

most likely. in your case its probably most economical to get your stock ecu retuned. some tuning shops can retune the factory r33 ecus nowdays, and still retain operational VCT.

dont go to a tuner that tells you to use an r32 ecu and either disable vct or run it full time, it should only be run in midrange like its originally programmed to do. its a drain on power up top and down low.

+1 for R&R...

12psi, factory ECU = prime candidate.

All cars are different, some play up and some don't but from what you describe and the RPM... It's almost certainly it.

Just back the boost off to 9-10psi and you'll find the problem should go away until you can afford to get some tuneable ECU solution in place

First thing to do is check your spark plugs though!

Make sure they are gapped correctly aswell. The best plugs are coppers not iridium and prob around 0.8mm for a stockish car.

I reckon you will open it up and they will be fouled. Then turn that boost down to about 10 so it dosnt hit rich and retarded and i reckon it will run sweet for ages.

Cheers :)

Edited by Dragonforce

First off, Thanks everyone for the feedback!

Ok i am in the process of saving up for an ECU and tune atm (Vipec), and will turn the boost down in the meantime as suggested.

Cheers Dragonforce but the car had denzo spark plugs put in about 4 months ago, and i know the lads at AutoWorx know what theyre doing.

I wasnt aware the R33 ECU's were at last unlocked? i heard about the whole nistune business, buying the r32 computer and z32 afm and all this and thought bugger that. :)

sorry to hijak but I just wanted some thoughts on my setup

Currently have a S2 r33 with a turbo back 3inch exhaust, std airbox with BMC filter, R34 GT-T cooler and am about to do the 'free boost mod' to get 7-8psi through the whole rev range. Am I likely to suffer from R&R or will the std computer handle this ok? I would love to get a tune but thats not practical just yet

First off, Thanks everyone for the feedback!

Ok i am in the process of saving up for an ECU and tune atm (Vipec), and will turn the boost down in the meantime as suggested.

Cheers Dragonforce but the car had denzo spark plugs put in about 4 months ago, and i know the lads at AutoWorx know what theyre doing.

I wasnt aware the R33 ECU's were at last unlocked? i heard about the whole nistune business, buying the r32 computer and z32 afm and all this and thought bugger that. :blink:

Dr.Drift over east can remap R33 ECU's but it's not cheap..

Otherwise, you can Nistune a z32 ECU to run your R33 with VCT.

And 4 months of running rich as hell will foul spark plugs.. hell, blow a cooler pipe and you can foul them in a few minutes.

sorry to hijak but I just wanted some thoughts on my setup

Currently have a S2 r33 with a turbo back 3inch exhaust, std airbox with BMC filter, R34 GT-T cooler and am about to do the 'free boost mod' to get 7-8psi through the whole rev range. Am I likely to suffer from R&R or will the std computer handle this ok? I would love to get a tune but thats not practical just yet

I reckon 7-8psi would be fine.

my r33 used to run a R32 wastegate actuator (10psi) and once it got over 9psi R&R kicked in and it died in the arse. if your not going to upgrade your ecu dont boost over standard, you will just lose power. i ended up putting R33 actuator back on and standard 2 stage and its 200% better.

most likely. in your case its probably most economical to get your stock ecu retuned. some tuning shops can retune the factory r33 ecus nowdays, and still retain operational VCT.

dont go to a tuner that tells you to use an r32 ecu and either disable vct or run it full time, it should only be run in midrange like its originally programmed to do. its a drain on power up top and down low.

ive got r32 ecu. no loss of torque or power anywhere? same dyno same day

Dr.Drift over east can remap R33 ECU's but it's not cheap..

Otherwise, you can Nistune a z32 ECU to run your R33 with VCT.

And 4 months of running rich as hell will foul spark plugs.. hell, blow a cooler pipe and you can foul them in a few minutes.

I reckon 7-8psi would be fine.

Yeah i read somewhere about this Dr.Drift. its like a swap over deal or something? ie, i send over ECU and he sends over remapped one? if its not cheap, id rather spend a bit more and buy something local that i know can be tuned over and over and not have any hassles with warranty or problems..

hmm.. bugger about the spark plugs :)

Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...