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Hi guys,

As recommended on the site, I changed from a VMX80/nulong G70 combo (as the box started crunching and becomming really notchy particually in 2nd and a little in 4th)

Anyway I warmed the box up, drained the warm oil and left it over night to clear all the nulon out.

Put the smurfs blood in and took it for a drive, I reckon the gearbox felt instantly a little more slick but the crunching was pretty much the same.

How long generally does it take for this stuff to have the full effect. Have done about 150km so far.

Also I know its a how long is a piece of string question but what is a full gearbox rebuild worth?

Cheers

Hi guys,

As recommended on the site, I changed from a VMX80/nulong G70 combo (as the box started crunching and becomming really notchy particually in 2nd and a little in 4th)

Anyway I warmed the box up, drained the warm oil and left it over night to clear all the nulon out.

Put the smurfs blood in and took it for a drive, I reckon the gearbox felt instantly a little more slick but the crunching was pretty much the same.

How long generally does it take for this stuff to have the full effect. Have done about 150km so far.

Also I know its a how long is a piece of string question but what is a full gearbox rebuild worth?

Cheers

mmm.. generally if an oil is going to make a difference then it will do so with a few 100m from the workshop... I'd say you have bigger issues unfortuntely mate.

You might be better off just sourcing another 2nd hand box perhaps? (always a risk I know..)

foe mine it was when driving the car for an hour till the oil gets hot and does its job,,, normally this oil should solve the problem or at least help it..in your case no....maybe its time for a second hand gearbox iam afraid

yeah its definately much better but not perfect. just being pedantic, it is still the same when cold (but if i double clutch its ok) is this normal? or do people have no probs when cold who did beforehand? when warm its pretty good now

mine started working straight away, the notchiness it had before the redline shockproof went away and 5th doesnt crunch at all, even when im on the motor way going from 4th to 5th at high revs....my box is now smooth as silk :blush:

like others have said, if you dont see results with the shockproof, your syncros are on there last legs

what am i looking at roguhly for a new box? if I look after it how long can I drive it for like this?

also someone said that the reason this happens (the notch slash light crunch is because the nulon teflon treatment coats the synchros, now they are so slippery there is not enough friction for them to work properly and hence they crunch. this really only started since i put the nulon in. i have since drained it and put the redline in, willthe nulon eventually break down and go away?

Edited by TUF250

Not sure which box you are running, but I know a RB26 gearbox rebuild with new genuine Ni$$an parts is about the $3300 mark. Best go get yourself a 2nd hand box in reasonable conditions and fill it with Smurf yoghurt again.

having said that, I spent $9k on a gearbox :D

Not sure which box you are running, but I know a RB26 gearbox rebuild with new genuine Ni$$an parts is about the $3300 mark. Best go get yourself a 2nd hand box in reasonable conditions and fill it with Smurf yoghurt again.

having said that, I spent $9k on a gearbox :down:

yea rb25 gearbox should cost not much less to overhaul than the gtr box as they are almost identical internally except for the rb26 box having the transfer case. anyone know if theres there any 3rd party synchro's available for nissan gearboxes?

i got 2 prices for 2nd hand gear boxes that are apparently low kms, for 1800 each, tbh im not spending that on a gearbox that might not be so great unless it has a warrenty

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