Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok so last week i decided to wire up my amp and sub.

so i setup the sub without a problem

last night i decided to wire my front speakers (and tweeters) to my amp

so i cut the wire under the dash as it came out of the back of the head unit, so now i had a wire going to each speaker.

so i soldered new wires to them and run it to the boot, plugged it into the amp and .... nothing from the front ...

i just dont see how ive messed it up ... so i decided to turn to the trustworthy people of SAU :(

any ideas

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326466-front-door-speakers-not-working/
Share on other sites

ok so last week i decided to wire up my amp and sub.

so i setup the sub without a problem

last night i decided to wire my front speakers (and tweeters) to my amp

so i cut the wire under the dash as it came out of the back of the head unit, so now i had a wire going to each speaker.

so i soldered new wires to them and run it to the boot, plugged it into the amp and .... nothing from the front ...

i just dont see how ive messed it up ... so i decided to turn to the trustworthy people of SAU ;)

any ideas

fader from front to rear ? faded to the back not front

wrong wires used?

factory amps? bypass ?

bad crossover wires ?

bad RCA or high level signals

swap the RCA from the sub to the front inputs and see if you have a signal, but be sure to shut off the deck sub out... if it has a crossover built in.

and dont crank it up you just want a sound from them.

could be a lot of things

have you tried to "pop" the speakers from the amp to the doors with a 1.5 volt battery ?, amp not connected?

even with a crossover they will pop when you hit a battery to the wires, with a crossover once the capacitor charges you need to short it out to hear the pop again. PM me for exact details if you don't understand . try not to use anything more then 1.5 volt battery. or it could damage the speakers

I'm assuming your positive you have front speakers in the car ? I've heard that one before.. and found they didn't have any installed..lol

worked it out

my head unit has 'restrictions' on output

would only allow the back to go through the amp enless it was in multifunction mode (only Cds) .... soo i bought a spliter and split the back output and connected the rcas to it and it sounds great

now i have another problem .... my tweeters have a static sound in them when music is played and as i rev the car you can hear the alternator whining -.-

i checked the wires and they dont seem to be over any power cords ..

any ideas ?

You have a ground loop.

Check your amp grounding (especially is it adequate in size, and connected to the body properly).

You running the RCA and power cabling down seperate sides of the car too, right?

Not always the case, if your crossover on the tweeters is too close to a power wire it's picking up A/C ripple.

alternators produce A/C before converting it to D/C a bad alternator can cause it as well

put your ear near other speakers ,does the noise come from all the speakers or just tweets? makes a difference in the fix

the splitter you put in can cause it as well. amp grounds, battery connections dirty, bad engine grounds, computer to close to RCA,the list is huge

some easy reading for you on noise

Noise prevention

and on power in a car

Alternators,batteries, etc

and a site from the GOD of noise reduction, David Navone, I have his big book but you can find it here

Tech Briefs

cheers for the help

i moved my ground wire and now the alternator noise is gone

buttt

still get the static buzz in only the tweeters .... tempting just to unplug the tweeter XD

butt

ill just have to take it all apart and either start from scratch or just try and correct anything thats wrong ...

thanks guys

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...