Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

I fitted a whiteline rear sway bar to my R34 GTT with no hassles.

However, when I got to removing the front standard one, I cant get two of the nuts off. The two centre ones. They have a very rounded lower part to the nut.

When I fit a 14mm socket it fits perfectly over it but when I apply force it burrs the nut. My old man and I have tried lots of different things with normal house type tools.

Does anyone have any tips or ideas before I get a workshop to take them off?

If you have spare nuts (pun intended) available you could try doing what i did;

Use a chisel or another hardened tool that is similar and position it with a hammer at an almost horizontal angle and tap it until you have created a groove in the bolt head then ensure your chisel is nicely slotted in the groove and continue to tap in an anticlockwise direction until it comes undone. I have a 34 and had the exact same problem and this worked for me, alternatively you could try the above ie; hammer a small socket onto the rounded nut then try and undo it.

cheers,

Steve

Thanks guys, yeah I tried both hammering the socket onto the rounded nut and also using a chisel. Would prob be easier up on a hoist too, mine was just on car ramps.

Bugger!

Edited by Harey

Ok dropped down to a suspension joint. They couldnt get them off with normal tools either. One they got off with the gun, the other one was too buggered. Ended up having to drill, chisel and break the nut off.

Got there in the end. They were on ridiculously tight as well.

Summary: use 6 sided sockets as you guys mentioned! :rofl2:

highlights the importance of using good tools.

precision 6 sided sockets made using quality metal will make your life SO much easier for high torque (suspension) applications. use a shitty socket set or one with 12 sided sockets and you'll just round off nuts all day trying to undo them.

a few years ago i bought a good toolset (ratchet, socket, spanners etc) and it's one of the best purchases i've made.

Yeah my old man bought me a full Kincrome set, so not cheap or anything. Just a pity he bought the 12 sided sockets!!

They have been fine for all engine bay and exhaust stuff. But yeah no good for suspension!

Ok talked my old man into buying an air gun with a set of 6 sided sockets!!

Wow it made the job sooo easy. Only thing was I had to remove another suspension part on each side to get to the second sway bar bolt in the middle. Not sure what its called but at the front with a massive bush. No way I could have got these two parts off without an air gun with the car only on ramps. Not enough clearance to get enough force on normal sockets.

Now I am trying to convince my old man to get a hoist hehe :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
×
×
  • Create New...