Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey forum need some opinions real quick. My situation, just had engine rebuilt with rods, cp pistons and copper head gasket. Pistons are 8.5 comp ratio. Build was about 3000kms ago engine is already broken in, now here is my dilemna.

Engine builder reset timing and ended up retarding it to 0 by my check, this was after it was already up and runing but just wasn't exactly on 15, timing was a bit off so he tried to reset it and ended up settin it to 0. This made my water temp higher than normal and the heat from the engine bay was extreme. According to my pfc the water temp was consistently around 95 when it was previously no higher than 85 no matter what temp outside was and how bad I flogged it. After I figured it might be the timing and confirmed it was I started the car removed the oil cap and when the car is warmed at idle there is smoke coming out there. It is only after the car is warmed up that the smoke is seen it is like steam from a kettle just reaching its boil, it is not thick , but it can be seen.

I also have a catch can setup, one hose vents to atmo and the other is attached to the top of the rocker cover breathers that are interconnected. I have no return into the intake as I have a modded 3" metal intake pipe that only has a return hose from my bov. When connected smoke comes from the venting hose of the catch can. There is no oil in the catch can but I have not really put boost into it as yet. I have a gt35r and might have put 5-10psi into the most as I fear to see the results. My boost is set for 17psi. Pvc valve is also blocked and when I removed the plug at idle the smoke comes from there as well.

Another bit of info when the car was retarded to 0 I figured it might be timing because I tried to boost it a few times and noticed the turbo was spooling but the car was going nowhere and also at night the exhaust manifold was red hot when previuosly it never was.

Only problem iI am having is the the smoke out the oil cap, there is no milky stuff under the oil cap, none in radiator, no smoke out exhaust and from the lilttle boost I have pushed it to it seems to be performing well.

What do you guys think that the my problem is, I assume rings, I really dont want it to be as the engine was just rebuilt?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/327021-wtf/
Share on other sites

Could be blown head gasket? You said it was running very very hot and there was steam coming out the exhaust, which sounds like a blown head gasket to me, could just be very mild though.

Do a full compression test wet and dry and let us know what the results are.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/327021-wtf/#findComment-5321983
Share on other sites

Could be blown head gasket? You said it was running very very hot and there was steam coming out the exhaust, which sounds like a blown head gasket to me, could just be very mild though.

Do a full compression test wet and dry and let us know what the results are.

he said there was no steam out the exhaust, its only coming from the catch can lines/cam cover vents.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/327021-wtf/#findComment-5321990
Share on other sites

your first problem is your over heating, get that sorted first, your oil can start to "steam up" if the engine is over heating, your oil temp is typically a few degress higher than the coolant temp soo.. 100 degrees oil temp u will get white

smoke comming out the oil cap, even if its just a little

i really dont get how u can get a car running on 0 deg timing, that doesnt make sense

forged motors can naturally fume up abit from the oil cap, very very little though, especially when being run in, do a comp test if your worried that your engine hasnt been built correctly / rings failed prematurely

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/327021-wtf/#findComment-5322060
Share on other sites

your first problem is your over heating, get that sorted first, your oil can start to "steam up" if the engine is over heating, your oil temp is typically a few degress higher than the coolant temp soo.. 100 degrees oil temp u will get white

smoke comming out the oil cap, even if its just a little

i really dont get how u can get a car running on 0 deg timing, that doesnt make sense

forged motors can naturally fume up abit from the oil cap, very very little though, especially when being run in, do a comp test if your worried that your engine hasnt been built correctly / rings failed prematurely

Yea it has stopped overheating since I sorted out the timing, the base timing is set to 15 he just messed it up by retarded it to 0 by the crank angle sensor. The fumes aren't clouds and clouds of smoke its like when water just starts to boil and thats the worst it gets, at least at idle. I didn't rev it with the oil cap off to see if the cloud got whiter and more pronounced.

I will get a dry comp test done as soon as possible and look for for someone to do a leak down test. Not worried that engine was built correctly as it was running fine just when the mech f*&^ed up the timing that this all started. The overheating, lack of power on boost and I also never took a look when the car was up to temp with oil cap off, or unblocked pvc, or looked at the exhaust of the catch can until this timing situation. So it could have been happening all along just didn't notice until now.

I did a dry comp test after intial run in and got basically 160psi across all cylinders, will do again though and keep you guys informed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/327021-wtf/#findComment-5322237
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I dunno about that as a blanket statement. Pitwork is Nissan's "Nissan genuine" thing, and for stuff like timing belts, I have found them to be excellent. Of course, for things like oil filters, you always use proper trusted brands anyway, not whatever the OEM has taken to using.
    • Ahhhh... If you were putting 12V to the led in there, that's likely made it very unhappy. Chances are how you put power, was 12V across an LED that's meant to only have about 20mA through it at peak, and a forward voltage of about 1.8 to 2.4 volts. That circuit is likely only a 3V3 circuit, and will have a resistor in series with the led too. That's my guesstimate on that light, without having touched one.
    • Another vote for installing them and see how you go.  I mean, you already own them, why would you not fit them? 
    • I have had too many of those over the years, my cars have a toolkit or at minimum a cheapy multi tool thing because its too easy to be snookered by some stupid plastic clip that stops you checking the battery terminal isn't loose.
    • Basically, if there is a part# on the nissan catalogue, it is a genuine part. There is a thing called "new old stock" which is stuff made years ago but never sold (or landfilled), but it is super hit and miss what you can buy. Other than some expensive Nismo stuff there is nothing new being made that suits these cars. The only time to be a little careful is (mostly in the US I think, but maybe Japan too), Nissan started rebranding some cheap crap maintenance parts like oil filters as "Pitworks"; stay away from them, if you are buying cheap just buy whatever the local car parts shop carries The three part numbers have an explanation on Amayama: 0V005 is auto, base style 0V015 is manual 0V505 is auto, hectic momo branded ones, maximum F&F points there!
×
×
  • Create New...