Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, here i am selling a Nissan Skyline R32 engine with roughly 130,000kms on it. The reason for selling this engine is because i have swapped the engine on my car to a non turbo engine to comply with the road rules, and have no intention of swapping it back so the engine has now been sitting around for a while taking up room.

The engine came from a perfectly healthy and great condition 1990 Skyline R32 that I myself has hand-chosen from the rest of many others. It was THE BEST condition R32 inside and out on the market at the time. The previous owner was a policeman and claimed to have never gone past 4000RPM on the engine along with regular servicing, and the quality and running condition definitely showed. The whole car was stock as a bone and carries no sludge as i've seen inside.

This engine package/set includes almost everything and is perfect for a direct engine replacement, engine swap into a Nissan Silvia or Holden Commodore, used as a spare engine or spare parts, or as a project. It is basically plug and play.

The engine package includes (may not be listed in the pictures but are included):

- The whole engine top to bottom in perfect running condition

- Ignitor on top

- Coil packs

- Spark plugs

- The whole intake and throttle body pipes

- R32 RB20DET manual ECU

- RB20DET ceramic turbo still attatched

- Manifold/extractors

- Up-pipe

- Intake box

- Stock side mounted intercooler

- A few other hoses

RB20DET specifications:

Power: 160kW @ 6400RPM

Torque: 263Nm @ 3200RPM

The engine is also listed on a few other sites so the ad may end anytime.

Will let go of this for $1100 ONO

Located in VIC, south east Melbourne.

Pick up is most preferable but postage can also be done in buyer's expense and arrangements.

If more pictures or information are required please e-mail me.

If you have any questions or queries, please do not hesitate to e-mail me here on my FireSport account or at [email protected] (checked more regularly). Or feel free to text/call 0433543344 anytime. Thanks for looking :rolleyes:

post-71802-1277945611_thumb.jpg

post-71802-1277945642_thumb.jpg

post-71802-1277945675_thumb.jpg

post-71802-1277945768_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...