Jump to content
SAU Community

Engine Light Problem Help!

MUZT3K

By MUZT3K,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

MUZT3K Veteran

MUZT3K

Posted
Posted

hey guys, today i went to winton and put my car on the track, on the 4th run when i hit 7k rpm i noticed my engine light flicker and id lose all power no boost at all. and then i tought id put it on low boost and hit 7k rpm and see what happens, i hit 8k rpm with no problems, droped the clutch in low boost no problem, droped it in high boost, engine light and lose of boost at 7k rpm. i currently have a high flowed turbo, apexi power fc tuned by trent at status, but what i do have is stock injectors, im leaning towards that as the problem i have a feeling even thou it was tuned so the injectors can handle that psi just, that they are now failing am i correct? and also i had high boost tuned at 15psi and low at 11psi i think and now on high boost im only hitting 14psi.

any help would be much apprieciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/327358-engine-light-problem-help/
Share on other sites
MUZT3K Veteran

MUZT3K

Posted
  • Author
Posted
covered in the PFC FAQ in my sig

there are 4 things that will flash the engine check light

the FAQ will tell you

"Things such as airflow meter max value, injector max duty, excessive knock will cause the engine warning to flash."

thanks for that paul, so i take it my stock injectors cant handle the boost :P

insted of my creating another thread. id like to know what injectors can hold 20psi and are direct feed please. thanks

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

and a std sensor failing or going out of range

so before you start fixing things, you need to first isolate what it was

i would suggest given you have stock injectors, its likely to be that

but you should check

id recommend

MONITOR

4 CHANNEL

AIRFLOW

KNOCK

INJ DUTY

BOOST

PRESS NEXT

make sure its on digital read out (that is each item is a number)

press RIGHT to clear their top score

flog the car to redline

and see if the light comes on

check the max values for each

each have their own trigger value to make the engine check light come on

the FAQ tells you how to check it and change it

and the FAQ also includes online emulator if you are unsure what keys to press on the hand controller

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...