Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

inner yellow headlights, closest to grill. how do i get them to work? they just fog lights?

wen driving and i break, the light in the dash thats right next to the battery light, illuminates.. why? lol i was thinkin there was a break light out but nope, all good there. any ideas?

below the mirror controls, just above the coin compartment thingy on the right hand side of the steering wheel there is a switch, has a up down arrow on it and some weird lookin thing in middle.. wats that? lol

any help appreciated

cheers

choc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/327403-couple-ceffy-questions/
Share on other sites

Hiii lol

OK lol here we go

The foglights are usually disabled during compliance or by previous owners because cops hate them, overe here in WA its a big on the spot fine.

Check theb ack of the switch and make sure the bulbs are connected to the wiring harness.

ROFL

That brake light on the dash is meant to indicated a breach in the circuit, mine used to do it even with all brake lights working, I tidied up all the wires and checked the connections and its all good now, it sometimes does it when its cold then goes away by full running temp.

LMAO

Post pictures of said switch. Sounds like the mast on the front bumper (ariel sort of thing on the front bumper that can be switched up and down, for short people that cant park for shit) or could possibly be the ariel raise/lower switch (but this is always on the centre console arm rest part).

Whats with all he lols dude ...?

Wait, what? front foglights are illegal in Austraila? or just yellow ones?

That said, sometimes I wish they were illegal over here thanks to the number of wankers in Audis and BMWs who drive around with them on during the day.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
    • EMU Classic. For what I need it to do I see no reason to upgrade. Link and Haltech would both cost an extra chunk of money for a lot of unutilized features
×
×
  • Create New...