Jump to content
SAU Community

Ultrasonics

Mick

By Mick,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

Mick Mentor

Mick

Posted
Posted

Hey i have a full alarm fitted to my car but the other day it got broken into, the only thing taken was my morphine tablets which i just picked up from the chemist, i suspect someone was watching the chemist. Anyways they used 2 coat hangers joined together and slipped it in between the side window and the door rubber and it had a hook on the end which they used to catch the door lock from the inside, now that would have been hard to do bec i tried to do it and it took me ages, the alarm went off but it wasnt on for long b4 i got to it so im thinking the ultrasonics didnt work. Im so gutted, out of everything they could have taken from inside the car that was the most precous to me, its going to be almost impossible for the doc to give me more cos there an authority script. Anyone know how ultrasonics work exactly and how they should be possitioned properly so this can never happen again ..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/327526-ultrasonics/
Share on other sites
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Well considering it takes all of about 10 seconds for someone with reasonable skill to do that - I'd probably say whoever it was was simply experienced.

Just because you cannot do it that fast, doesn't mean it cannot be done :whistling:

I used to be able to get into an bomb old car of mine, my first car.... who's lock loved playing up... in about 20 seconds.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/327526-ultrasonics/#findComment-5328421
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      I was using the wiring diagram I have So 12.74V is coming into the rear Fuel Pump relay as I measured.  When I turn the key to ON im getting 0.6V to the Fuel Pump plug; which i assume is backfeed voltage and doesnt include the 12V from ignition power.  The rear relay is working and being triggered.  From the diagram I clearly see the rear relay 80 = Rear Relay going into the Body/H loom (R-27) 27 = Fuel Pump plug going into the Body/H loom (T-20) 40 = Short Connector (R-27) I'm reading 12.74V on the blue/black wire which is the power for the Fuel Pump   From this diagram I can see the Ignition relay goes into the front and up to the ignition  2 = Fuel Pump Relay <1M> (R-27) 37 = ING Relay <1M> I started from the pump using this reference Which the way I read it (referencing Nissan wiring color codes) is: Pin Wire Color Function 1 B/P (Black/Pink) Ground 2 L/W (Blue/White)        ECU Trigger 3 SB (Sky Blue) Fuel Pump 5 L/B (Blue/Black) 12V Constant Tested SB to SB on Fuel Pump for continuity - confirmed Tested negative on Fuel Pump to 12V battery and L/B - confirmed 12V Pulled the relay putting 12V between Pin 1 & 2 and testing continuity on Pin 3 & 4 - confirmed relay   So that has me looking at this part of the circuit to understand whats happening here...and im still confused. From best I can tell; the disconnect is back to my previous diagram; between Ignition Relay and Fuel Pump Relay...which yet again; afaik is where the immobiliser should.    Thats what I was trying to explain to GTSboy; im not trying to fix it myself; yet I seem to have to get a Masters in Electrical Engineering (while im busy doing my actual job of DevOps & Cloud Engineering) somehow.  I just wanted more expert opinions; or more so that what I tested is correct and proves it to something around that area; to go back to the alarm tech (for a 3rd time) that he needs to fix it. He keeps telling me its not the alarm. He lives on the complete other side of the city so i understand not wanting to make a trip but as I said before if its the alarm it should be up to him to fix it. But he's adament its not; even though I pointed out the FP was immobilised through the original alarm. To my mind; it seems that the ECU is sending the signal; but the ignition is not getting 12V down the line.       
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW 335i

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • Duncan
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Duncan · Posted

      I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • Kinkstaah
      My BMW 335i

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
×
×
  • Create New...