Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Little harsh up top there. All been in good faith mate.

I'm becoming a little skeptical of my mates mechanical ability. I have put my trust in someone that has completed their apprenticeship + TAFE to know what they're on about, but having realised that I can install the pod filter myself.. im a bit suss of him.

The forums have been great, and a good way to source advice, parts & knowledge :D

Anyway, not important. What I'm looking for is a way to unbolt the AFM, seeing as the bottom bolts are impossible to reach :D

Already got my clamps, pod cleaned/oiled up & adaptor all ready to go, just got to get the bloody thing off

If I'm bored this arvo I might take my shit apart and post back with results.

oookayy... I can't edit my post.

That golden ring is bending like a mother f**ker... really, only thing I can think of is unbolting it regardless of the damage to it, and picking up another one from somewhere.

Edited by SKITTLES

WHAT A f**k AROUND.

Just been outside for the last 2 hours w/the old man attempting to fit it.

Main areas of concern being the filter being ridiculously hard to fit to the adaptor, its on to a point where it's not going to fall off but if I clamped it i'd be clamping onto nothing

The pods got nothing to stand on, its just chilling resting on top of the pipe underneath.

And the presence of a gap between the adaptor gasket and the adaptor, along each long side. Im worried that this will suck air in, there's no way for me to tighten it.

The golden ring thing is still attached, not sure if it's meant to stay on or not.

Love anyone who knows what they're doing to help me out :P

ok... i think you didnt need to oil that filter. im pretty sure its a dry filter...

the filter. goes on to the adaptor... the adaptor bolts on to the afm... you have to make sure you have the right adaptor.

which means take your afm. go to autobarn or super cheap. get them to give you an adaptor to match.

even if the holes on the adaptor are too far apart. you can always drill new ones.

there should be a rubber o-ring on the face of the afm (if im correct) this should seal the air.

of the bottom bolts of the afm are hard to reach. take out the rubber pipe that the afm is connected to. the one that goes to the turbo... i know that seems like "wtf" but sometimes you hafta do it. just for unbolting the afm.

once you have the adaptor on the afm... bolt it on to the rubber intake pipe whilst its all out of the engine... then install the ruber intake pipe over the turbo...

and then lastly force in the pod filter.

as for the pod sitting on nothing. thats fine. if you want to brace it down.. connect 2 zipties together and ziptie it to the pipe underneath. (your going to use alot of zipties with this car, liek alot of ppl do) BUT its temporary... get a bracket made up. heck get some spare sheet metal n bend it up yourself... its easy just bolt it to the back of one of the bolts thats on the afm. and then to an existing hole on the car..

i hope i didnt confuse you.

post up some pics. if your unsure. pics always help

Thanks for the posts, been very helpful :nyaanyaa:

All i'm concerned about now is that the pod filter (it does need to be oiled, came with a cleaning&oiling kit) seems to have an incredibly tight fit with the adaptor, as in it seems too "tight" and too "shallow" to fit on properly.

Also the gap in the rubber gasket concerns me, surely that isnt meant to be there

Will pull it apart this arvo and let ya know :)

Thunderbirds are go. Got it all in&running, everything is sweet.

Cheers for all the help guys, really appreciate it. These forums are a great source of info :(

Loving the sound of the pod on boost ;)

  • 1 month later...
Hey dude i would double check the rules for having a turbo car as i just got off my red p's today and was not allowed to drive a turbo. Also live in Perth

Huh? :ermm:

From the WA DPI site, there is no mention of Car restriction for P platers in WA, only the time restriction for Red Ps & the no alcohol limit.

Once you are grated a provisional license you will be on P plates for two years and the following rules and conditions apply:

  • You must display your P plates at all times when driving
  • You must have a zero blood alcohol level at all times when driving
  • Committing certain driving offenses as a P-plater could mean you automatically lose your license
  • You cannot drive between 12am-5am for the first 6 months after you have first become a P plater. For this period you will need to display red P plates. After the first six (6) months, you will be able to drive at any time of day and you will need to display green P plates. There are certain exemptions concerning these conditions. Please see the Rules for novice drivers (includes L and P platers) web page for more information.

I saw an L plater driving a Merc C63 AMG once...

Edited by Mayuri Krab
  • Like 1

I'm pretty sure in Victoria the restriction is only on P Platers, not L Platers.

So if your dad has a VE SS, you can learn to drive on it, but once you get your licence it's a big no no.

Makes sense if you ask me. I can't see many L Platers going spastic in a high powered car with mummy or daddy in the passenger seat. At least not if they had my parents lol.

  • Like 1

I got my R33 for $4500... 100,000km's on the clock. Mint condition with a kit :P I Guess I scored lucky. No paint or mechinical problems. Immaculate inside and out.

Must say, it's a good feeling to see someone with another stroke of luck

  • 5 months later...

sooo...is turbocharged cars restricted in WA for provisional drivers? I searched the forum and haven't got a clear answer. Am really close in getting an r33 as a first car.

No, go to the WA dpi site & it will say what I stated b4.

No restrictions on any cars (you can drive a Lambo, AMG, M5 if you have rich parents...), the current restriction for P platers are: 0 alcohol limit, night driving ban (from midnight till 5am for red Ps) & the newly introduced low demerit point system (4 point for Ps & 8 for Greens).

WA is one of the few states in Australia that doesn't yet have a car restriction list for P-platers, all the Eastern staes have them.

EDIT: DPI site: http://www.transport.wa.gov.au/licensing/20626.asp

Edited by Mayuri Krab

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...