Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

The brakes started grinding the other day. Took the rears off this afternoon (didn't get to the fronts yet), I'm not expecting perfectly even pad wear but the inner pad on the drivers side was completely worn to the backing whereas the other 3 pads were about 50% or so and still had a fair bit until they would've reached the squeal indicators.

This seems a bit excessive that one pad would wear away completely before the others get to the squeal indicator.

The car is an '03 model coupe 350GT with the brembo calipers. Has anyone else seen pad wear like this?

I'm planning to just clean the sliding pins a bit, put some high temp grease on there and keep an eye on it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328681-brake-pad-wear/
Share on other sites

That's pretty unusual, when was the last time you bled your lines? The only thing I can think of is maybe there's some air in one line, which is causing less pressure to the pad. I get marginally more wear on the pads on the left hand side of the car, but that's because the track I usually go to has a number of trail-braked right handers. Even then the wear difference is less than a few mm.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328681-brake-pad-wear/#findComment-5343239
Share on other sites

sometimes the pistons on the calipers develop rust due to moisture in the brake fluid, if the corrosion is bad it may cause the pistons to seize and wear the pads out faster. get your brakes serviced and make sure the pistons arn't stuck...otherwise you may need new calipers or possibly change the pistons and seals.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328681-brake-pad-wear/#findComment-5343456
Share on other sites

I had a similar issue with mine, the sliding pins were actually bent, causing the outside pad to never touch. I straightened the pin up in a vice and have had no issues since. It may pay to remove the calliper and check.

Edit: I thought the Brembo's were twin piston in which case one of the pistons is seized.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328681-brake-pad-wear/#findComment-5343694
Share on other sites

Hmmm, I thought seized piston may have been the case at first, but then I was able to push the pistons back into the caliper (to fit the new pads) using only a screwdriver.

Brake fluid, I haven't changed it yet, bought the car 6 months ago and it doesn't see any track work, but I guess now is a good time to do it. What's the order again? left rear, right rear, left front, right front?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328681-brake-pad-wear/#findComment-5343813
Share on other sites

if you havent changed brake pads since the car rolled off the ship..then it might just be a dodgy repair shop in japan who replaced pads with used ones...i've seen imports before with different brand brake pads left and right.

just bleed and replace fluids and monitor ur brakes to make sure they arnt sticking....u can usually know if one side wheel is significantly hotter than the other...or gives the distinctive burnt brake pad smell

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328681-brake-pad-wear/#findComment-5344214
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes I can see how that would put you off HFM, especially with the price of good quality brake fluid. From what I understand it as you say the BM50 is the standard BMC for a R32 GTR, I must admit I would like to go far a Genuine Nissan BM57, but lack of cash prevents that at present. With the price being so close between the genuine BM50 and BM57 a BM57 New it seems a better choice as you gain that 1/16 bore size with the BM57, I would be interested in how much difference you feel with the BM57 fitted. I am going to take SteveL's advice in the short term and see how much actually comes out of that proportioning valve vent and save up for the Genuine Nissan part. Thanks for clarifying the HFM failure
    • Thanks mate. I just got the post inspection 1/2 done from state roads when the starter motor packed up, either that or the car alarm system is having trouble.  OEM part number 23300-AA112.
    • Hi, I though I was coming to an end in finding a replacement starter motor for a rb25de neo. I came across a starter motor from Taarks and a message below stating: Direct fit. 11 Tooth count. All below part numbers have been superseded to 11 teeth. Can some body shed some light on going from 8 teeth to 11 teeth apart from 36-month / 25,000 km warranty for passenger vehicles to 12 Month Warranty. Compatible with the following Nissan part numbers: 23300-20P00 23300-20P01 23300-20P05 23300-20P10 23300-20P11 23300-AA111 23300-AA112 23300-AA300 23300-08U10 23300-08U11 23300-08U15  
    • Low battery? Maybe check capacity? I know first-hand, on BMWs if your battery drops below 80% capacity, it starts causing strange issues.
    • 8.5 +37 = should fit rear, but I think it'll hit on front. What you want is low 30s/high 20's front, mid 30's rear. That 17" screenshot you posted looks good, I'd run it on my R32 (but that's long dead now). For tyre sizes, my rule of thumb is: 8': 235, 9": 255. But that's just my opinion. Nismo sizes: 18x8.5+35/18x9.5+38 is a good starting point.
×
×
  • Create New...