Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

The brakes started grinding the other day. Took the rears off this afternoon (didn't get to the fronts yet), I'm not expecting perfectly even pad wear but the inner pad on the drivers side was completely worn to the backing whereas the other 3 pads were about 50% or so and still had a fair bit until they would've reached the squeal indicators.

This seems a bit excessive that one pad would wear away completely before the others get to the squeal indicator.

The car is an '03 model coupe 350GT with the brembo calipers. Has anyone else seen pad wear like this?

I'm planning to just clean the sliding pins a bit, put some high temp grease on there and keep an eye on it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328681-brake-pad-wear/
Share on other sites

That's pretty unusual, when was the last time you bled your lines? The only thing I can think of is maybe there's some air in one line, which is causing less pressure to the pad. I get marginally more wear on the pads on the left hand side of the car, but that's because the track I usually go to has a number of trail-braked right handers. Even then the wear difference is less than a few mm.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328681-brake-pad-wear/#findComment-5343239
Share on other sites

sometimes the pistons on the calipers develop rust due to moisture in the brake fluid, if the corrosion is bad it may cause the pistons to seize and wear the pads out faster. get your brakes serviced and make sure the pistons arn't stuck...otherwise you may need new calipers or possibly change the pistons and seals.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328681-brake-pad-wear/#findComment-5343456
Share on other sites

I had a similar issue with mine, the sliding pins were actually bent, causing the outside pad to never touch. I straightened the pin up in a vice and have had no issues since. It may pay to remove the calliper and check.

Edit: I thought the Brembo's were twin piston in which case one of the pistons is seized.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328681-brake-pad-wear/#findComment-5343694
Share on other sites

Hmmm, I thought seized piston may have been the case at first, but then I was able to push the pistons back into the caliper (to fit the new pads) using only a screwdriver.

Brake fluid, I haven't changed it yet, bought the car 6 months ago and it doesn't see any track work, but I guess now is a good time to do it. What's the order again? left rear, right rear, left front, right front?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328681-brake-pad-wear/#findComment-5343813
Share on other sites

if you havent changed brake pads since the car rolled off the ship..then it might just be a dodgy repair shop in japan who replaced pads with used ones...i've seen imports before with different brand brake pads left and right.

just bleed and replace fluids and monitor ur brakes to make sure they arnt sticking....u can usually know if one side wheel is significantly hotter than the other...or gives the distinctive burnt brake pad smell

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328681-brake-pad-wear/#findComment-5344214
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...