Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Selling an ARC turn flow intercooler for a GTST R33 Series 1 or 2.

Will not need to cut into body work so you won't risk defects to the car. You only need to shave off abit of the air con fan housing. Bolts on directly

I am selling the intercooler used but in great condition. No bent fins.

PRICE: $700

Location: Toowoomba

Payment: COD, Can post but postage to be paid by buyer. Brisbane / Gold Coast buyers, I can deliver...

Throw me an offer.

Edited by k3vv
hey does it come with the bolts n stuff to bolt onto the car

To bolt onto the car, there are 3 points to attach:

1 uses the nut that holds the bonet latch. Undo and attach!!!

2 more at the bottom of the intercooler. Its just a 10 mm nut that will be provided. All the connecting pieces that holds the pipes together are provided.

Buy, plug and play baby

You only need to shave off abit of the air con fan housing

Any more details / pics of this?

I've been looking at fitting a Blitz LM FMIC to my car at the moment, and there's no way it's gonna clear the aircon fan housing and I don't feel real comfortable cutting into it.

To bolt onto the car, there are 3 points to attach:

1 uses the nut that holds the bonet latch. Undo and attach!!!

2 more at the bottom of the intercooler. Its just a 10 mm nut that will be provided. All the connecting pieces that holds the pipes together are provided.

Buy, plug and play baby

oh yea shit bein that easy to install sounds so temptin but im tryin to get the rest of my exhaust then ill b lookin at somethin like this im tryin to reach the 200kw mark

oh yea shit bein that easy to install sounds so temptin but im tryin to get the rest of my exhaust then ill b lookin at somethin like this im tryin to reach the 200kw mark

I am quite confident that this FMIC will be able to carry that amount of power you are trying to achieve, and even more........

JRM Any more details / pics of this?

I've been looking at fitting a Blitz LM FMIC to my car at the moment, and there's no way it's gonna clear the aircon fan housing and I don't feel real comfortable cutting into it.

JRM: I think no matter how you go, you will need to shave off a bit of the housing. What I did to my car was just shave off part of the 'wing' that is sticking out of the fan housing. It won't throw the fan out of whack or anything. The more important bit is that the reo bar does not need much modification or cutting into.... What sort of pics do you want?

To the both of you, check out the link. I have done this myself too and its dead easy.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...tml&hl=fmic

PS. check the first pic below item no. 8 and how the bit of air con fan housing needs to be shaved. Thats all in it....

The FMIC I am selling is exactly the same

PS. check the first pic below item no. 8 and how the bit of air con fan housing needs to be shaved. Thats all in it....

The FMIC I am selling is exactly the same

Wow. Just wow, okay - I just learnt something.

The R33 fan is *totally* different to the R34 fan. The R34 fan the middle part has a plug and sticks *way* out from the housing - like maybe a good inch out. That's what the FMIC I'm trying to fit is hitting on. If ARC needs trimming on this fan, then I reckon any FMIC would.... bugger! Oh well, there goes my thought that maybe I could get rid of the Blitz and try an ARC :D

Wow. Just wow, okay - I just learnt something.

The R33 fan is *totally* different to the R34 fan. The R34 fan the middle part has a plug and sticks *way* out from the housing - like maybe a good inch out. That's what the FMIC I'm trying to fit is hitting on. If ARC needs trimming on this fan, then I reckon any FMIC would.... bugger! Oh well, there goes my thought that maybe I could get rid of the Blitz and try an ARC :)

Like I said mate, throw me an offer. Get it while its hot!!!

It took me 2 days at first because I didn't have all the tools, First time I worked on a car and it took some time to find all the nuts and bolts. But it only took me 3 hours to remove the FMIC.

Wow. Just wow, okay - I just learnt something.

The R33 fan is *totally* different to the R34 fan. The R34 fan the middle part has a plug and sticks *way* out from the housing - like maybe a good inch out. That's what the FMIC I'm trying to fit is hitting on. If ARC needs trimming on this fan, then I reckon any FMIC would.... bugger! Oh well, there goes my thought that maybe I could get rid of the Blitz and try an ARC :D

i got a blitz on my R34. didnt have any problems with it clearing the fan. although it is very close.

edit... when you got the kit there should have been 2 brackets for the top of the cooler one for r33 and one for r34

Edited by wasnt me
i got a blitz on my R34. didnt have any problems with it clearing the fan. although it is very close.

Did you trim your reo tho?

I've seen a few pics of r33 and r34 now - and their fans seems to be nothing like mine; The motor on my fan sits heaps further out ..

WASNT ME

i got a blitz on my R34. didnt have any problems with it clearing the fan. although it is very close.

edit... when you got the kit there should have been 2 brackets for the top of the cooler one for r33 and one for r34

Reply: I am not sure whether the 33s and 34s have the same principles and I don't doubt you if the blitz doesn't require you trimming anything. ARCs usually have thicker cores isn't it??? As for this particular one that I got, all the brackets are welded to the FMIC. So I am not sure whether it is able to fit a 34

Did you trim your reo tho?

I've seen a few pics of r33 and r34 now - and their fans seems to be nothing like mine; The motor on my fan sits heaps further out ..

Reply: I did trim my reo alittle bit too. Not much, just nip it where the FMIC meets, angle grinder it about 5 mils, and whack the hell out of it to bend that bit of reo. If you ever take the FMIC out like me, just whack that bit back to its original position.

As to your fan, it sounds like an aftermarket type fan?

Again guys, throw me an offer...... I was real happy with it, nothing wrong with this particular one, just want to sell it as I will not be upgrading my car any more.

Edited by k3vv

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...