Jump to content
SAU Community

What Do I Need To Re Solder

Blazk

By Blazk,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

t_revz Grand Master

t_revz

Posted
Posted

soldering iron and solder obviously. scratch as much of that crap of and clean it up before starting. try to get the joints hot quickly and either shake it to flick out old solder or just add to it depending on what it looks like. try not to get too hot as diodes and other components will break down and fail. sharp knife or scewdriver when you finish and scratch a line between the tracks on the board incase any residue has settled between them. goodluck

jrm Veteran

jrm

Posted
Posted

The three main bits with the orange around them are the usual culprits for dry joints - you shouldn't even need more solder - just clean up the gunk, then heat them up with an iron to re-flow, and should be good. The orange is a good indicator of an issue with the joint. I re-flowed those three joints on mine (only ones showing issues) when the gauge was starting to play up on occasion (usually going over bumps), and it's been perfect since.

If you see any others that look dry - might be worth cleaning up & re-flowing those too.

jrm Veteran

jrm

Posted
Posted

Is the hose still intact from the plenum? One of the times my gauge failed, I found the hosing split to pieces, barely noticeable - but it just sat on 0 (or just off). I think they fall to pieces after a few years in a hot engine bay - it was terribly brittle.

Blazk Experienced

Blazk

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I pulled it off the sensor and started up, the suction was defiantly there, didnt see any cracks or splits...but will mulit check it.

Edit: Hose is clean and not cracks or holes that i could see..

Does it matter if i have an after market boost gauge on / will that effect if the stock boost is working ?

Edited by Blazk
jrm Veteran

jrm

Posted
Posted

Aftermarket gauge will typically be hooked up to a different point, so should be fine. As long as the piping from the plenum is going into the boost sensor, and the sensor is plugged in fine, should be good. You could also try reading the voltages out of the boost gauge - the R34 service manual lists what voltages associate with what boost levels (will rule out whether it's sensor or gauge failure)

I'd offer to drop past and let you try out my boost sensor, but the front end of my car is in pieces at the moment for fitting FMIC and not sure it's gonna be driving for another week or so... (depends how lazy I am)

Tommy Kaira RL Mentor

Tommy Kaira RL

Posted
Posted

Try borrow a boost sensor some wreckers will let you try to buy. Or you could blow into the sensor with a hose and watch the guage. I had to wiggle the plug on the boost sensor all the time to get it to work until i re soldered. The pins could be dirty where it plugs in. It sounds like its trying to work. The guage wouldnt even move if it wasnt for the sensor sending something.

Blazk Experienced

Blazk

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
Aftermarket gauge will typically be hooked up to a different point, so should be fine. As long as the piping from the plenum is going into the boost sensor, and the sensor is plugged in fine, should be good. You could also try reading the voltages out of the boost gauge - the R34 service manual lists what voltages associate with what boost levels (will rule out whether it's sensor or gauge failure)

I'd offer to drop past and let you try out my boost sensor, but the front end of my car is in pieces at the moment for fitting FMIC and not sure it's gonna be driving for another week or so... (depends how lazy I am)

Thanks for the offer Jenna, I read your FMIC didnt fit which sucks.

I found the after market boost is hooked up via the BOV so that didnt affect it at all. I went to Andrew's (nightcrawler) last night and picked up his spare triple gauge. Put it in and seems to be working, but only quickly tested it. Looking at the back of the Nismo one there are a few orange solders so i will go over them today and see what happens.

As for the sensor anyone know if the r33 and r34 use the same one ? I read on a couple post people using r33 sensors and they seem to work the same, anyone confirm?

Edited by Blazk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Duncan · Posted

      Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Duncan
      Coolant leak?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • GTSBoy
      Coolant leak?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Chupapy
      Coolant leak?

      By Chupapy · Posted

      Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...