Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As it says WTF I started my car up thismorning and heard sum noises from the engine so I turned it off and popt the bonnet. I started it again to diagnose problem and thought my clutch fan was stuft coz it wasn't moving and then I noticed the crank wasn't turning. WTF it doesn't make any sence to me. How can my engine run fine? With this problem?

Anyone?

Isn't it imposible for the crank pully to slip?

Ahhhhh help?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331132-wtf/
Share on other sites

the harmonic balancer (where all the ancinary belts line up to, sits on a key... so if the crank moves it MUST move... unless its fallen off? of been undone... the pistons run off the crank so it has to be moving...

so the fan, alternator and power steering pump are all not spinning yes?

Edited by chef_stagea
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331132-wtf/#findComment-5377174
Share on other sites

ive done a timing belt on one before and no how hard they are to get off. ive had quick feel and it seems quite tight. im gonna start stripping the belts off and other shit in my way take it off and have a good look.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331132-wtf/#findComment-5377191
Share on other sites

well they crank pully had the slightst bit of play in it and has now stript the key off the crank. im in the shit now arnt i

where to go from here dont tell me i need a new crank. is there any way to repair this.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331132-wtf/#findComment-5377254
Share on other sites

U my friend need to start saving for an rb 30 bottom end! I'm unsure if it's 2 price or sumthing but if it were to be repaired it would b very weak! I'm mid timing belt drama diagnosis myself!

well they crank pully had the slightst bit of play in it and has now stript the key off the crank. im in the shit now arnt i

where to go from here dont tell me i need a new crank. is there any way to repair this.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331132-wtf/#findComment-5377304
Share on other sites

thats so gay i just got the car back on the road a few weeks ago and was hangn for this cruise thats cumn up.

i might start pulling the engine out then. dont think ill be doin an rb30 bottom end as much as i would like to.

ill prob have to redraw on mortgage and fix crank put a 3076 on it while the motor is out and go from there.

so devo right now

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331132-wtf/#findComment-5377319
Share on other sites

Last weeks' "Quokka" (West Aust trading post type paper) had an RB26 for sale in the Skyline bits section, $7k & 700hp according to the details in the adv. Dunno if that is still for sale & I do not have the paper at hand but someone else on the forum may, if you are interested Brendan?

Good luck with your fix anyway

GW

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331132-wtf/#findComment-5377379
Share on other sites

hmmmmmmmm so dont wana replace the crank but think i have to.

to do it myself or not to do it myself?

im gona pull the motor our and put new turbo on. just not feeling confident about doin bottom end work.

ive done a bottom end rebuild on a twin cam isuzu in a gemini. but that was a gemini.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331132-wtf/#findComment-5377384
Share on other sites

Before you start pulling the engine out get some professional advice from a machine shop. Myself I would look at welding the harmonic balancer to the crank before i started pulling out a perfectly good motor but there might be a better way!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331132-wtf/#findComment-5377398
Share on other sites

Before you start pulling the engine out get some professional advice from a machine shop. Myself I would look at welding the harmonic balancer to the crank before i started pulling out a perfectly good motor but there might be a better way!

i was thinkn of tryn to weld it on but i dont think it would be possible to do with the bolt in the way. and without the bolt in it might not be on straight. duno ill have to ring around tomoz. might just pul the turbo off untill i find out more

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331132-wtf/#findComment-5377412
Share on other sites

Its an easy fix mate. Buy a replacement key from Nissan. Remove radiator, remove pulley and bits of broken key. I suspect the key is actually missing and engine eventually worked crank bolt loose. I can assist if needs. No need to remove engine or buy new one. It'll be a $5 part. Ruby

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331132-wtf/#findComment-5377569
Share on other sites

yeah you dont need a new crank . even if its a bit scuffed nothing you couldnt dress down with bit of grinding paste . go get a new key and put it all back on woth some of that liquid metal or bearing retaining compound

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331132-wtf/#findComment-5377686
Share on other sites

Its an easy fix mate. Buy a replacement key from Nissan. Remove radiator, remove pulley and bits of broken key. I suspect the key is actually missing and engine eventually worked crank bolt loose. I can assist if needs. No need to remove engine or buy new one. It'll be a $5 part. Ruby

now thats what i want to hear. so is the key part seprate from the crank? il have to have a good look tomoz. i just finished removing my turbo ready for the 3076 to go in.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331132-wtf/#findComment-5377758
Share on other sites

oah i thought it was part of crank cause instead of having a slot in the crank where that key bit would go i now have a bit of a hole.

ill clean it up tomoz order the part from work and see if i can get away with it. whats the worst that could happen

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331132-wtf/#findComment-5377779
Share on other sites

Woodruff key is only for locating harmonic balancer, bolt holds balancer on!

Very common after timing belt replacement, Especially RWD vehicles :domokun: (FWD usually has easy access for rattle gun).

No one removes starter motor to lock crank for correct tension on bolt!

Remove balancer, line up tdc on crank, fit new key(glue if req), line up tdc on balancer, tension bolt to specs!

Have done a few, inc above or full removal of crank, spray weld snout and re cut slot, but no warranty applies either way!

My advise: try it, if it slips again buy a new crank!

Edited by RED513
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331132-wtf/#findComment-5379142
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I hope it's actually possible. This is a write off in insurance world.
    • Yup. 2-way with shallow ramp angles. Still works.
    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
×
×
  • Create New...