Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No Wakkie this weekend :(.

Just a cruise meet n greet between NSW and ACT.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/418972-mid-march-mid-way-meet-up/page-3#entry6772390

Think there is a thread in NSW section - luke's the Orgyniser

  • 1 year later...
  • 6 months later...

So I was researching this issue and came across this thread. Looks like I have the same issue. On cold starts the 4WD system always works fine but sometimes on hot starts the 4WD error light comes up on the dash and the car is in permanent 2WD mode.

Had a look and it always seems to be error code 18.

Joey did you ever solve your problem mate? It's just painful with no 4WD the car is way to tail happy. I'll start testing this weekend hopefully but any insight would be appreciated.

  • 1 month later...

Just wondering if you guys resolved this problem?

I have an R32 GTR with error code 18. Tested the circuit as per the workshop manual and it's all good. However 4WD light stays on permanently and attessa pump only primes rarely on startup.

Any input from other people's experiences would be appreciated before I begin to change pressure switches and pumps out of desperation!

Look at the positive terminal on the battery. See if you can replace/improve the links.

Ravi - if you are replying to my comments I have a new battery and new cabling, solid connection. An auto elec also tested the entire Attessa circuit and all powers up fine.

Summary of my issue:

- 4WD and ABS lights stay on constantly

- Attessa computer reporting Error code 18: “ETS pressure switch or circuit fault”

- Auto elec checked all circuits and wiring thoroughly, all is ok

- 4WD pump primes on initial startup but no pressure going through lines to gearbox

- When pump is forced to prime (sending power direct to pressure switch) no fluid is coming to gearbox

Might have to bite the bullet and replace the pump!

Tried replacing the nitrogen canister above the rear diff ? It's 25 yrs old.

And I should add not cheap at around $400

That and then a flush of the fluid to be thorough

Made me a happy camper. :)

Tried replacing the nitrogen canister above the rear diff ? It's 25 yrs old.

And I should add not cheap at around $400

That and then a flush of the fluid to be thorough

Made me a happy camper. :)

Haven't tried, but makes complete sense to do so. Any advice on where I can get a new nitrogen canister?

Thanks for the response!

I didn't have any errors, but i replaced my canister and it totally changed the behaviour of the system during bleeding.

I got mine from rhdjapan (few months ago) it was about $280. My pump was starting to make funny noises from running all the time, wish I had changed it ages ago

  • Like 1
  • 6 months later...

So I was researching this issue and came across this thread. Looks like I have the same issue. On cold starts the 4WD system always works fine but sometimes on hot starts the 4WD error light comes up on the dash and the car is in permanent 2WD mode.

Had a look and it always seems to be error code 18.

Joey did you ever solve your problem mate? It's just painful with no 4WD the car is way to tail happy. I'll start testing this weekend hopefully but any insight would be appreciated.

Very late reply, I did end up solving the issue mate, what the issue actually was, stuffed if I can remember haha think it may have been battery related

I've actually got another fault now so will be interesting to see what that one is as well

Did this fix it mate?

Yes my 4WD is working like a dream now. Fitted the new nitrogen canister and bought a digital G-sensor to replace the old original sensor... Car hooks up all four wheels almost instantly on the track! No tail happy over steering with delayed torque split anymore.

Next I will rebuild the transfer case to ensure best possible mechanical engagement.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...