Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just changed my timing belt, idler and tensioner pulleys. It runs fine, and sounds fine at idle, but over about 4, 4.5k RPM there's a significant humming noise and vibration.

What could it be? Is it normal for a belt to make that noise when it's new? It's just a normal nissan belt. The only other thing I can think of is the tension being wrong, but we spent a while doing it, and my mechanic mate reckoned it was alright.

Suggestions?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331890-vibrationhum-after-timing-belt/
Share on other sites

We chipped a bit off one of the ridges while taking it out. It's only the light stuff, it probably weighs 20 grams, which we didn't think would make a difference to the balance of something that weighs many times more. Also thought if it was that it would be noticeable when revving it stationary.

Could that be it?

Ouch, could be anything really...when you change a part like this it often brings out different sounds from the moving parts it interacts with because you're resetting positions that have evolved with each other over time. Could be a loose bolt, bad pulley (water pump replaced too?)...

The harmonics of a straight 6 gets worse as the revs climb, I would imagine revving while stationary wouldn't be putting the load onto the crank you would normally get while driving. If I damaged my harmonic balancer in any way, personally I would have binned it and replaced it with a aftermarket balancer. The worse thing that can happen is the oil pump gear breaking in some way.

Think I found what it is. The had a look at the fan, and there seems to be a fair amount of play in it. You can visibly see it vibrating when it's running, so it's probably that. I'll take it off and run it again to see if it goes away when I get a chance.

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
    • Yeah, shame. Maybe  driver's carpet is available 🙏. I am waiting for both amayama and nangun to confirm.
×
×
  • Create New...