Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey. Just wondering if my clutch might be going shortly or not? It squeaks most times and the release point in the pedal is very high.

Anything to worry about?

Also can someone post a link to the thread about the air con control lights and how to change them please? I cant seem to find it (even through search bar).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331946-squeaking-clutch/
Share on other sites

if it squeaks when you push the pedal in then it could be 1 of 2 issues. 1 is the bracket where the pedal mounts under they dash. the other is the pivot bolt inside the gearbox. the first issue is the easiest to check and fix. the second is relatively easy to check, but much harder to fix as the gearbox has to come out

if the pivot bolt is damaged in anyway then the next time you press the clutch pedal may be the last before it gives out and you lose all use of the clutch. when mine broke i pushed the clutch in and it felt funny, so i let it up and did it again. it still felt funny. i let my foot up and the pedal got nearly all the way back out before it shot to the floor. i could pull it back up by hand but the clutch didn't work.

I had the same issue on my old R33. It was the clutch fork which needed to be lubricated.

Squeaky when pressing and releasing, very annoying. Grabbed a can of motorbike chain grease and sprayed in the plastic flap where the fork is located. Annoying problem solved and cost me $6 to fix =)

  • 1 month later...

bunny-thread-relevant-to-my-interests.jpg

if it squeaks when you push the pedal in then it could be 1 of 2 issues. 1 is the bracket where the pedal mounts under they dash. the other is the pivot bolt inside the gearbox. the first issue is the easiest to check and fix. the second is relatively easy to check, but much harder to fix as the gearbox has to come out

Mine has a squeaking sound audible from outside the car, which isn't all to audible for me but I don't like it being there :P

I'm assuming it's the pivot bolt. Where abouts should I look for that and do I need to take the gearbox out to greese it up?

you can fix the squeaking pivot bolt without removing the gearbox. you simply spray something like a spray grease in through the opening around where the clutch fork goes into the gearbox.

WD40 sounds like it'll do the trick :P

I had a mechanic do that on my Excel once but the squeaking soon redeveloped.

Is a lack of lubricant the only thing causing the squeak?

yeah it is. also wd40 is too thin, so the noise will come back after a few weeks/months. something thicker like a spray grease, motorbike chain lube, or even just a blob of grease on the end of a long screw driver (and then a small piece of wire to work it into the right area) will be better than wd40. wd40 isn't really a very good lubricant.

yeah it is. also wd40 is too thin, so the noise will come back after a few weeks/months. something thicker like a spray grease, motorbike chain lube, or even just a blob of grease on the end of a long screw driver (and then a small piece of wire to work it into the right area) will be better than wd40. wd40 isn't really a very good lubricant.

Any specific type of lube you recommend? I'll pop into supercheap or something on the way home.

  • 1 month later...
if you go to advanced search and search for posts about the pivot bolt and my name you'll find a pic i posted about it

Thanks Hugh. I haven't had a chance to do it recently, and I went to do it the other night and it wouldn't make the sound (it's a bit hard to work out where the sounds coming from when the sound isn't being made :whistling: )

If I get home by a reasonable hour tonight, I'll have a look...

For future Googlers

here is the picture. the pivot bolt is about 2 inches in behind that soft bit.

the picture is taken from the drivers side. if you stick your head under the car just behind the front wheel that is what you'll see.

post-70785-1291067039_thumb.jpg

Edited by SKITTLES
Thanks Hugh. I haven't had a chance to do it recently, and I went to do it the other night and it wouldn't make the sound (it's a bit hard to work out where the sounds coming from when the sound isn't being made :blink: )

If I get home by a reasonable hour tonight, I'll have a look...

For future Googlers

Further noting, it's on the drivers side of the gearbox, there's a medium, square rubber grommet... just pull it out on one side and move it out of the way.

I sprayed some WD40 in and it fixed it.. but give it a week and it'll come back..

What part in particular am I supposed to lube??

What should I be straining to look for? I can only really see a black single bolt.

you should see the clutch fork sitting on that bolt. that bolt has a mushroom shaped head on it and the clutch fork pivots on that. you need to lube up the top of the pivot bolt. you just have to spray a heap of lube onto the area and then continuously push on the clutch to work it into where it needs to be

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

sorry to dig up and old thread but im a little confused.

My clutch squeaks when i press and release it and im trying to diagnose why.

I'm looking under the dash to find the bracket that may] need greasing up but im not sure where exactly i should be greasing.

post-82442-0-51532500-1305540476_thumb.jpg

where should i be lubricating??

any help would be greatly appreciated!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...