Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does anyone know if the tein tools/spanners come in different sizes?

Mine seem to fit the lock rings ok but when I lever on them to loosen the

lock rings, I just end up with skin of my knuckles when I slip and hit something

under the wheel arch.

Mine have part number: SST01-97001

post-38314-1281163744_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332022-tein-spanner-tool-query/
Share on other sites

Wasting your time then. I have JIC coilovers in my z20 soarer. Use a medium-large screwdriver and a hammer.

Im not joshing either hehe, it does actually work. Just some slight percussive maintenance

:)

And you butcher the rings.

Tein spanners are not all the same sizes.

Cheers for the replies :)

Yeah no hammers, better to use correct tools.

Although in saying that, had to use hammer and 4inch nail

years ago to get lock nuts of my wheels which the 'correct' tool broke.

Here's a similar pic of the POS!!!!!! lock nut, mine had a domed head, or should I say doomed head!

post-38314-1281173553_thumb.jpg

If they are the C spanners that came with the car, chances are they are the right ones.

It's hard adjusting the height on the car if it hasn't been changed for a long time and they are slightly seized.

Take the coilovers off the car, spray with wd40 (make sure you don't get any on the shaft/seal) and then undo the rings.

Make sure you're turning them the right way.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...