Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've been looking at a vspec II for sale, it's completely stock, good condition all round, only thing I noticed was the odometer was out of alignment (whether or not that means much I'm not too sure, general condition of the car seems reasonable - I'll get a MTA inspection later on). I've done some searches but most topics are over a year old, basically I'm wanting to know a rough price guide to know I'm not getting ripped off (price is $22,000), and whether the car is going to be wasted on me?

I know they're semi-collectable with only 1300 made, but for the purpose i want it for i feel like i wouldn't be treating it well, i'd be driving it a lot, and taking it to the track regularly, definitely going to get a few mods too, am I better off with a regular GTR?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332193-r32-gtr-vspec-ii/
Share on other sites

In short,...

If it's a goodie, grab it - but don't forget to bargain.

Condition is reasonable? ie less than good? ie much less than really good? $22K is for excellent cond with low kms & history!

Check the speedo attachment to the cluster - been scratched/doctored? Odo numbers should only be out of alignment when you get close to a bunch of "...999"

For $22k, and if you're not looking for an "original keeper" I'd def think twice.

For around that money or a couple of grand more, you can get some pretty decent 32's with decent mods already done.

It all depends on what you want.

If its a nice car, you want to keep stock(ish) yes it might be a good buy.

If you want a GTR to punish a little/mod etc etc, you can probably get a bit more for your money if you go a run of the mil 32 GTR.

Was this at Japlink? sounds like the one I saw today. Was it marked at $28k but they said they'd sell it for $22k?

makes me think they're a bit desperate... if its the same car? I'd guess they'll accept less.

I did look at the speedo also, I'm not sure how far out of alignment it should be before its considered "wound back"

When I drove home, I looked at the speedo in my humble honda civic, and it had very similar slight misalignment, and

it's certainly never been wound back.

I'm glad new cars now have LCD odometers to help put an end to this dodgy practice.

The car is totally stock, which is what appeals to me and my grandpa like intentions for the car.

I'm glad new cars now have LCD odometers to help put an end to this dodgy practice.

Easiest method is buying a new cluster, you can do it in the fords I know of a guy who lives near me that did it.

I could never imagine doing it though, pretty deceitful.

I'm also in the market but I haven't found one that's caught my eye yet. I think you'll find that alot of the owners will put it up for a price much more than it's worth simply because it's a GTR and they know someone will buy it eventually. I've seen 33 GTR's for 35k with torn seats + footwells, high k's etc.

Was this at Japlink? sounds like the one I saw today. Was it marked at $28k but they said they'd sell it for $22k?

makes me think they're a bit desperate... if its the same car? I'd guess they'll accept less.

Yeah I don't think I'm going to go for it. No use wasting a good vspec II on someone like me who'll take it to the track all the time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...