Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 225
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

Maybe.

Wanted to ask the guy at the red light but just couldn't quiet get along side him :\

So, in other news:

I got my gearbox out tonight.

! hour 20 mins, including jacking car up, driveshaft, diff, and getting the box on the ground and out from under the car.

As it turns out....there might be nothing wrong at all with the box, the clutch on the other hand, farken LOL.

Heavy wear on the inside of the compound (10mm section on the inside has about 1.0-1.5mm more wear), the compound itself was shithouse...half the clutch just crumbled as soon as I pulled it off, and the flywheel has scorch marks all round.

So....maybe the crunchies was clutch engagement...since the box hasn't even been leaking oil.

Hahahah...ah....ha....eh.....gayest story of my life :(

Just wait for the next HSV they will try and squeze that motor in to keep up with everyone else.

I had something similar with my 1st 180, car wouldnt go into gear one minute, then fine the next, crunch gears etc, thinking its farked. Pulled the box out and all the clutch plate springs fell out.

I didnt install the clutch...I pulled it out of the halfcut, looked at it, still heaps of meat left on it so I just chucked the good gearbox on it and threw it into the Ceffy...Stock clutch, 126xxx kms...dare say it was the factory clutch ?

Doesnt matter, new flywheel and GTR clutch on now....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...