Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi people,

I have to admit i didn't use the SEARCH function on this question, a little lazy.

I am wondering if the petrol you pump into your vehicle will stay 'fresh' after 2 weeks inside your car?

I remember i read from somewhere on the forums where people did mention that the 98RON might lose a few 'RONs' or something like that.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332629-petrol-quality/
Share on other sites

2 weeks LOL... nothing will happen.. Well nothing to be concerned about... My fuel opften takes 1 month or so to get used... Still drives fine.. I'd only be concerned if your running high end power.. My fuel was sitting there for just over 8 months.. and finally drove the car the other day.. Mind you i am staying off boost until a fresh tank can be run though..

Edited by .:: GimpS-R34 ::.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332629-petrol-quality/#findComment-5394835
Share on other sites

fuel doesn't go stale in 2 weeks. it does go stale over time, but not in 2 weeks, or even a month really. that said a car will still run on fuel that is pretty old, just not that well. i've got an old commodore and the fuel in it is a mix of about 6 months old and 2 years old and it still starts and runs. my mother has a 2000 model corolla and she had to have an operation and couldn't drive for about 3 months and her car ran fine after those 3 months (i drove it occasionally during those 3 months, but never put fuel in it)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332629-petrol-quality/#findComment-5395053
Share on other sites

the amount that it gets diluted it's not worth thinking about though.

but in case you wanted to think about it.....

fill 1: 50L of fuel put in. for arguments sake we'll say it's a 50L of fuel and was drained prior to filling

fill 2: filled up with 10L left, so there's 40L fresh fuel and 10L 1 week old fuel

fill 3: filled up with 10L left, so now there's 40L fresh, 2L from fill 1 and 8L from fill 2

fill 4: filled up with 10L left, so now there's 40L fresh, 400ml from fill 1, 1.6L from fill 2 and 8L from fill 3

fill 5: same as above but now the 10L consists of 80ml of fill 1, 320ml from fill 2, 1.6L of fill 3 and 8L of fill 4.

so when you look at it like that, 40L is from the current fill, 8L is only 1 fill old and the remaining 2L is 2 fills or older and the stale fuel from fill 1 is going to be negligable (only 400mls of fuel in the tank is from 3 or more fills ago). the amount of fuel that is multiple fills old is always going to be small even if you will up with more than 10L to go.

but theoretically speaking the fuel tank still contains an extremely tiny amount of fuel from the very first time it was filled up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332629-petrol-quality/#findComment-5397712
Share on other sites

I dont think fuel goes of that quickly, it would take a few months atleast. It might depend on weather to? I think in the summer it may go off quicker but still not in a time span you would have to worry about unless you wern't going to drive your car for like 6 months. Even then it should be fine.

I have driven cars straight of the boat from japan and they drive fine and god knows how old the fuel is by time the car reaches Aus.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332629-petrol-quality/#findComment-5397769
Share on other sites

Fuel does go stale over time. But months or years, not weeks, something like methanol you'd need to be more careful about but not boring unleaded. Lol. Get cars at work driven in by the "seniors", they keep the tanks filled to the neck and re-filled weekly after their one trip to the shops, fuel comes out yellow and has no smell to it, car runs, but poorly, but this is after 5+ years. And usually it's the water in the fuel causing problems in these cases...

Also, my car was knocking under load (so I stopped loading it) on it's journey home post-purchase (import from a dealer), good tank of 98' and it went away...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332629-petrol-quality/#findComment-5398797
Share on other sites

fuel doesn't go stale in 2 weeks. it does go stale over time, but not in 2 weeks, or even a month really. that said a car will still run on fuel that is pretty old, just not that well. i've got an old commodore and the fuel in it is a mix of about 6 months old and 2 years old and it still starts and runs. my mother has a 2000 model corolla and she had to have an operation and couldn't drive for about 3 months and her car ran fine after those 3 months (i drove it occasionally during those 3 months, but never put fuel in it)

Thanks for sharing.

__________________

Watch Piranha 3D Online Free

Edited by nicoledc109
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332629-petrol-quality/#findComment-5401775
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...