Jump to content
SAU Community

Firepower Brake Pads...? Any One Used Them

chef_stagea

By chef_stagea,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

Krishy Grand Master

Krishy

Posted
Posted

i have used bendix before and have sworn never to go back to those pads ever again in my life on any car.....the amount of brake dust it creates is f**king insane.....and the braking performance claimed isnt really there.....well for me it wasnt anyway......QFM A1RM's for street and track so far are awesome......even Lucas are good value

SLED Grand Master

SLED

Posted
Posted

Project Mu have just come out with a new pad called the "Club Racer"

http://www.project-mu.com.au/en/

It sits firmly in between their "Type HC+" and the very famous "H16 03" pads (pretty much an industry standard in pro motorsport events)

The HC+ is probably the most aggressive pad you would want to run on the street but still remains a true street/track pad, whereas the "Club Racer" pad is not as effective on a street car (still OK though) but a killa pad on the track.

As far as the "H16 03" pads go, ask anyone involved in pro motorsport what they think about this puppy.

I ran EBC & Project Mu pads in the R and fell in love with the latter so I'll be going down this road again with the EVO.

SLED Grand Master

SLED

Posted
Posted

are they harsh on rotors Luke?

cause I'm leaning towards a high coefficient pad for track days and the stock Brembo pads for daily..........can't really see how a dual purpose pad will perform at its best in both scenarios (it'll be compromised) hence why I'm leaning towards different pads for each situation rather than a one pad does all deal.

I think that a street/track pad may eventually be too harsh on rotors for daily use and not enough bite on a track once it gets hot....does the Ferodo 2500 fall into this category Luke?

Luke_ENR34 Grand Master

Luke_ENR34

Posted
Posted

I'm thinking of testing out the new project mu's later on. They are called something else over it japan so I assume there's a big mark up on the Aussie ones. I'll find out prices for those who are keen :yes:

SLED Grand Master

SLED

Posted
Posted

yeah they only get better the hotter they get, depending on which pad you got Kye.

I think the Type HC+ are over $500 for front & rears, the Club Racer pads are around $700 and the H16 03's are around $1000 :(:yes:

yeah let me know what price you can source the Project Mu "Club Racer" pads for a 2010 EVO X MR with Brembo calipers please Luke. :)

SLED Grand Master

SLED

Posted
Posted

Well I just got Dale's Brother Matt from "Growly Custom Machining" to slot my rotors and I'm a very happy boy.

Thought this would be an appropriate thread rather than starting another one.

Matt said that he would give SAU folk 20% discount = $100 for a set (machined front & back)

He has various designs that he can throw on the CNC machine so give him a call.

Too many peeps throw a bucket load of cash under their bonnett then get to Malalla and do shit times cause they can't stop...I reckon $100 was money well spent.

So what are you waiting for??

http://www.growly.com.au/services.html

052.jpg

SLED Grand Master

SLED

Posted
Posted

Ryan, you hit the nail right on the head....couldn't agree more.

If the Club Racer pad hadn't been available (track only), the Type HC+ was def the one I would've used.......and it's a pad that you can drive home with and leave it in there.

Project Mu win in my books but everyone has their faves I suppose.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...