Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

About to sell my R32 GTR so these parts are no longer needed

All parts are located in the Parramatta area, will post also at buyers expense.

Please look at the pictures carefully for condition of each item.

Either PM or call me on 0411 352 888 if you're interested in anything.

1: RB26 timing cover, painted in a custom purple. Immaculate finish.

Also because it's already been prepped smooth and painted, would be very easy to paint it to the colour you choose without much prep work.

$65

2djxfzo.jpg

2: Brand new RB26 Gates timing belt. Bought this but never installed it.

$95

6hm6go.jpg

3: 30mm wheel spacers with all nuts and a set of locking nuts included. 5 x 114.3 stud pattern

Used but in very good condition, was only on the car for 3 months.

$145

2u56h5w.jpg

4: Momo sports steering wheel and R32 boss kit (compatible with HICAS). Has a crack on each side of where your thumb goes.

$80

2qmj9c6.jpg

5: Isotta steering wheel, in good condition. The thumb grip on the left had side is slightly peeling, however a bit of glue should fix that.

$90

jajrb8.jpg

6: A set of R32 GTR headlights in excellent condition. All clips and mounting points intact.

$185

dha104.jpg

2vufspg.jpg

1zclgxx.jpg

7: Standard R32 GTR ECU in working condition. Not needed as I'm running an Apexi

$50

2mcx2yq.jpg

24fjorc.jpg

8: Blitz induction pipe and pods. In great condition, I had the pipe painted in silver. Comes with brackets.

$145

1zefuzb.jpg

9: Mats from an R32 GTR. Unfortunately I have misplaced the driver's side mat, but I was using the r33 mat which actually fitted better, although they do miss match in colour.

No rips, tears, slight fraying to the borders.

$30

330fbyh.jpg

10: R34 mat set, in excellent condition. The only wear is slight in the heel patch, which you can see in the pic. Other then that the mats are in great condition.

$95

epere0.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332904-gtr-other-parts-clean-out/
Share on other sites

Buyer said he deposited the money early this week but I have not received it as yet. Waiting for a reply before I put the spacers back up

ok if he doesnt ill take them pm me

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...