Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

While the engine is out and almost ready to go back in I thought I would tidy up the boost controller install from before which had me sitting my SBC-R in the position of the factory one near the battery. I used to get some pretty spikey boost at times so I have relocated the SBC-R to where the air filters are, I have a bit more room here now my washer bottle is where the battery USED to be.

Anyway the plan is to run the SBC-R off a boost pressure source on the turbo side of the engine, through the unit and back to the actuators without crossing the engine bay, saving roughly 2m of hose in the process.

The controller unit in the car requires a pressure feed to it as well, so I was going to take this off the underside of the plenum and run it direct into the cabin to save routing of hoses.

I am then left with the water lines for the turbo from behind the block, I no longer need three pipes running behind the block, so I was going to ditch the whole piece off and run a 10mm water hose from the bracket on the turbo side to the two connectors on the intake side of the block. This also alleviates the problem I have created with my read head oil drain.

Have attached badly done diagram

post-20826-1281789450_thumb.png

post-20826-1281789460_thumb.png

post-20826-1281789495_thumb.jpg

looks fine. make sure however u plug off the ends under plenum is over engineered and will never come off or leak. if you get a leak u will have to pull the motor again.

did you spill some paint from your engine stand to the rocker covers :thanks:

Thanks. The covers are a dark red from craved coating, iPhone camera sucks a lot tho :)

The ends under the plenum don't even really need plugging since no air will be passing thru them with this setup

Edited by Keeper

are you getting the boost source for the actuators from the bov return line? (your red line) thats not right

That is the line to return the air "bled off" from the factory boost control into the metered airflow

If you want to get a compressor feed from the turbo side you pretty much need to drill and tap one on the "twin turbo" tube or intercooler hose

are you getting the boost source for the actuators from the bov return line? (your red line) thats not right

If you want to get a compressor feed from the turbo side you pretty much need to drill and tap one on the "twin turbo" tube or intercooler hose

Damn that is true. I can see what I have done now, If I run a t-connector off the plenum then and use the same source as the in car controller sensor I should be right then. I don't really want to drill and fit a new nipple onto the turbo outlet piping.

I would recomend drilling actually, so much simpler. there is even a lil dot on the pipe where you should do it.

On the "Twin Turbo" badged piping piece?

Would a bolt in nipple be fine or should I get one welded on?

are you getting the boost source for the actuators from the bov return line? (your red line) thats not right

That is the line to return the air "bled off" from the factory boost control into the metered airflow

If you want to get a compressor feed from the turbo side you pretty much need to drill and tap one on the "twin turbo" tube or intercooler hose

damn, just thought, do I need to balance the BOV return piping with the intake plenum, I assume thats why that connection runs to there from the plenum in the first place

post-20826-1281857625_thumb.png

Ok... I'll try and show whats happening. i am that bored.

Assuming your actuator solenoid has 2 ports to be used:

post-26632-1281860600_thumb.jpg

Generally you can block the small hose on the return pipe when fitting a 2 port actuator instead of the factory 3 port

Ok... I'll try and show whats happening. i am that bored.

Assuming your actuator solenoid has 2 ports to be used:

post-26632-1281860600_thumb.jpg

Generally you can block the small hose on the return pipe when fitting a 2 port actuator instead of the factory 3 port

Thanks man, I posted the last post then left the house realising how retarded a question it was, if I had connected the BOV return pipes to the plenum I would have a continual boost leak through that hose.

I never realized the factory system vented back into the BOV pipes until you explained it then, the setup makes a lot more sense now than before.

I will plumb the red hose in my diagram to the turbo compressor outlet and plug up the BOV return pipe.

Will fix my diagram after and repost it to stop anyone using the wrong thing.

Thanks for your help.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, long time no post as per usual! It's been a busy year so far, the biggest thing being a new job.  After 28 years in the automotive industry I decided it was time for a change.  I was losing faith in the industry and where it's heading.  Now in a completely different industry (electrical) working for a company that manufacture water pump contollers.  Not as sexy as cars but it's an interesting,  challenging industry. I now don't work Saturdays which is a bonus!  It's still 50-55 hours a week but having Saturdays ack after 28 years of working them is awesome!   No news on the GT-R but i did decide to add some more JDM goodness into my life....           1990 300 ZX.  She's not perfect but for a 35 year old car she ain't bad!  Just going to tidy it up a bit and enjoy it.  It's currently auto but will start stockpiling everything for a manual swap. It WILL distract me even further from the GT-R but im hoping not for too long! It somewhat proves a 6'8" freak can fit in a 300 ZX.  Sort of...  I drove it home from the previous owners house in Melbourne via Black Spur and Merton Gap (2 awesome bits of Victorian twisty road) and it was amazing!  Handles so well!!!   I don't think it would be worthy of a full build page but I'll post up some of the upgrades here if anyone is interested?  Cheers guys!
    • End game is to: - Remove all the slop from old worn parts - Adjust setup so that the wheels actually fit and the car is drivable (currently it is not because of the extreme rubbing on the guards).   Progress over the last couple of days, removed the rear hubs! Next steps: - Buy bushings - Replace bushings/bearings on hub - Reinstall
    • Cracked deck  And other cam snap stuff   
    • A few random issues have popped up since my last update. My WMI pressure sensor failed within about 10 minutes of it seeing liquid. It was a 20$ China special, so I'm not surprised. My name brand replacement should arrive today.  My power steering assist also decided to crap out last weekend. The usual, works for about 60 seconds after starting the car then I lose it. I dusted off my old copy of NDS and connected to the HICAS ECU. Code 4 for assist solenoid.... I tested the solenoid and it's fine.  I knew the day where my HICAS ecu would crap out would come, and I welcome it. It was the last HICAS part on the car that is now in the bin. I've ordered an SSR and I will control the power steering solenoid with my Haltech ecu. It will be nice to have proper speed referenced assist again after all these years.   
×
×
  • Create New...