Jump to content
SAU Community

S2 Stagea With Coolant Issues

Mr GTS4

By Mr GTS4,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Mr GTS4 Mentor

Mr GTS4

Posted
Posted

hey guys,

i might have some bad news but i'll ask you guys anyway...

last night after re-bleeding front brakes i saw a small bit of oil underneath the car so i degreased it and washed it down.

after doing that i did the normal things like checked oil and radiator and found the small bubbles coming up while it was idling, then like a white milkly stuff started to surround the top of the radiator, not alot but still noticable. bigger bubbles from time to time and also when revving the engine to about 2k the coolant level lowered abit.

doesn't seem to be overheating at all nor driving any different...

dont' think i've missed anything.

any input would be great.

curt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333128-s2-stagea-with-coolant-issues/
Share on other sites
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

If you have the cap off and rev the engine the coolant level will commonly go down and return to normal when you stop. Watch for the leak to reappear. Bubbles and milky stuff bit of a concern. Try to get your colling system pressure tested (any radiator shop should be able to do it - its a 5min job.

RubyRS4 Grand Master

RubyRS4

Posted
Posted

Liek Kiwi said, coolant level varying on engine revs is normal, as your waterpump is 'pushing' (or trying to) more coolant into the block. The bubbles and milky residue is a concern. It does sound like you've got a blown head gasket unfortunately. :)

Pull your dipstick out and see if you've got any trace of a "chocolate milkshake" there. This will show coolant mixing with oil. If no oil, only bubbles, then its coolant leaking into cylinder.

If you can change the head gasket yourself, you'll save a big bundle.

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Don't panic. Are you losing water, overheating? Get the pressure test done and if there is no negative result just keep on driving while looking for any more symptoms. If there is clear evidence of water in the oil or vice versa or if the pressure test shows system not holding pressure then you may need to look at pulling head off.

Mr GTS4 Mentor

Mr GTS4

Posted
  • Author
Posted

losing alittle water that i noticed the other day.. but i had the top tank replaced about 2-3 months ago, so it may have not been bled right.. it doesn't overheat.

i'll have to take it down to the radiator place on my next day for them to check it out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      New kid on the block

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 VQ25DET starter motor

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...