Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all, ive searched and searched the forums and just have a few questions about fitting a r33 greddy plenum to a r34 gtt with neo engine.

so i bought the r33 greddy plenum, r33 throttle body adapter, r33 hks fuel rail, and will buy r33 injectors.

few things i want to know:

So i can only use a r33 s2 or s1 throttle body? or can i use a bigger aftermarket one? if i choose the aftermarket one will i have to weld a new flange onto my plenum?

What TPS i will have to use

What wiring i will have to alter or remove to get this to work

What do i have to do to make the injectors fit? just use smaller (or bigger?) O rings for the injectors?

any other hints and tips anyone know please let me know, the info will be very very appreciated.

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333178-r33-greddy-plenum-on-r34/
Share on other sites

Yeah it's quite a bitta work. need adaptor plate for aac valve. use as much of your standard wiring as you can. I used neo injectors with diffrent orings to fit and spaced the rail up, then at the end the day was useless with the factory ecu having a big meltdown. Couldn't get the idle stable, and was down heaps on power, and just didn't enjoy running in general. Put back to factory and runs fine again. Unless you have a piggyback or replacement ecu, I'd wait to do this mod.

dude, seriously by the time u have gotten the r33 greddy plenum and done all the f**king around and shit with it u would have been able to buy a plazmamn plenum which a perfect straight fit,

and they look way better.

dude, seriously by the time u have gotten the r33 greddy plenum and done all the f**king around and shit with it u would have been able to buy a plazmamn plenum which a perfect straight fit,

and they look way better.

+1 i went with plazmaman great bit of gear

i already looked at the plazmaman one for quite a while but decided against it, trying to tidy up the engine bay make everything a bit more accessible. but ive already ordered the greddy so no point talking about different ones. just want to know whats involved with fitting it.

cheers

Pays to have it resurfaced, and also pressure tested. you can get away without doing this but at the end the day ifit leaks, you gotta pull it apart. New gasket. Adaptor plate for aac valve, not hard to make your own, or you'll need to get one made. An adaptor for your throttlebody. Think the r33 adaptor will work, but unsure as I made my own hereaswell. If you use you factory injectors and rail. Slot the mounting holes, and make apropriate spacers for the rail. U'll need from memory new oring 7.5mm inner diameter, 15-16mm outer diameter, can't remember exactly, to fit the intake. New vacuum lines to plumb it all up, aswell as brake booster and water lines. And you'll need to get creative on where you plumb all the water lines, as there's 3 in the aac valve, but you don't have 3 to connect to. I never got mine sorted, ie that the flow was going correctly. I knew it was running hotter than normal, because the electric fans were coming on more and they're set of a 85 degree thermo switch. make new intercooler pipework to suit new intake. Then after all sed and done it won't run on a factory ecu. My understanding is that the volume of air inside the plenum is whats throwing the tune outta whack. big flat spot from 3k onwards, probly a loss on 1/3 power. So unless you plan to, chip n tune, nistune, or some other ecu, you will be sorely disapointed when you take for first run.

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I drive the Tiguan much harder than the Skyline in all conditions, because it just grips and hooks, unlike the R33 shit box
    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
×
×
  • Create New...