Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Riceline, in your picture you cut off the 4th connection, the one that goes to the PCV valve on the plenum.  It is on the cam cover juts down from the blue one in your picture.

If you open up the angle of the photo a bit so we can see the inlet plenum, then I can draw on your picture the choices you have for plumbing up a catch can.  Yes that's right you have CHOICES, there is not a wrong and a right. :P

Id be extremely interested in seeing this too, I assume itd be along the same lines for a GTR? Looking at putting one on, what would be the best way of doing it?

  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Id be extremely interested in seeing this too, I assume itd be along the same lines for a GTR? Looking at putting one on, what would be the best way of doing it?

Exactly the same for a RB26DETT, or an RB20DET or an RB25DET or an RB31DET (in my case). But keep in mind there is no "best way", you choose whichever suites your requirements.

I call the choices :cheers: ;

1. 100% plumb back

2. 50% plumb back

3. Zero% plumb back

Anyway, more when the picture is up. :wave:

So what options do/dont u have if your catch can isnt vented?

I have a trust can which is basically hollow but looks cool.. not vented.. u know the one.

Whats the best option for say; 230rwkw or less, running either standard or hiflowed turbo, big intercooler, on 12psi constantly?

I think this suits alot of people...

Is this right?

Let's try this one, it's the open to atmosphere catch can;

The idea is to only have one connection from the cam covers as they are joined by the standard pipe. The PCV valve and the connection to the inlet before the turbo are blocked off. You can have a return (drain) to the sump form the catch can if you like. Don't T it into the turbo oil return as it is under a bit of pressure and the oil can run up into the catch can.

The other 2 options follow in separate posts. :D

SK doing it that way wont cause any probs to idling?Don't laugh but is the blow-by metered by the air-flow meter,coz after all it is air that has been metered.What i'm trying to get at but slowly :D is blow-by the same as air from a bov that is being vented to the atmoshere?

SK doing it that way wont cause any probs to idling?Don't laugh but is the blow-by metered by the air-flow meter,coz after all it is air that has been metered.What i'm trying to get at but slowly :) is blow-by the same as air from a bov that is being vented to the atmoshere?

Good question R31 POWER, but if your engine has enough blow by to cause idling problems, then it is not the blow by that you should be worried about. :spew:

Sorry for the delay, virus on the laptop :type:

This one I call the 50% plumb back, because half of the time (no boost times) the air from the catch can is being sucked into the inlet manifold via the PCV valve;

It is not my favourite, because you can still get a bit of oily air into the engine, but since it doesn't go in under boost (the PCV valve is closed then) detonation isn't much of an issue. At least you don't get any oil into the intercooler and its pipework.

The last is 100% plumb back, all of the air goes back into the engine. Some goes via the PCV valve, at times of no boost. When there is boost, it goes back via the inlet system, through the turbo, the intercooler and its pipework. :uh-huh:

The idea is the stainless steel wool, helped by the lower velocity in the catch can, catches the oil and removes it from the air before it goes back into the engine. This is the environmentalists favourite :alien: and is the easiest to get engineered.

SK,

How would you plumb it, if emissions were not an issue, as in a 100% race engine. Metohd 1, 2 or 3 ?

On the race cars we run open to atmosphere. We do run 2 pipes to the catch can and remove the joiner (standard) pipe between the cam covers. It's not really necessary on a road or combo car though, the one pipe does the job OK.

Hope that helps :)

So, would it be acceptable to plumb the PCV line to the catch tank, and leave the joiner as is, with the tank vented to atmosphere ?

As long as you block off the unused plumbing and fittings. I gotta ask why though? :confused:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...