Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Riceline, in your picture you cut off the 4th connection, the one that goes to the PCV valve on the plenum.  It is on the cam cover juts down from the blue one in your picture.

If you open up the angle of the photo a bit so we can see the inlet plenum, then I can draw on your picture the choices you have for plumbing up a catch can.  Yes that's right you have CHOICES, there is not a wrong and a right. :P

Id be extremely interested in seeing this too, I assume itd be along the same lines for a GTR? Looking at putting one on, what would be the best way of doing it?

  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Id be extremely interested in seeing this too, I assume itd be along the same lines for a GTR? Looking at putting one on, what would be the best way of doing it?

Exactly the same for a RB26DETT, or an RB20DET or an RB25DET or an RB31DET (in my case). But keep in mind there is no "best way", you choose whichever suites your requirements.

I call the choices :cheers: ;

1. 100% plumb back

2. 50% plumb back

3. Zero% plumb back

Anyway, more when the picture is up. :wave:

So what options do/dont u have if your catch can isnt vented?

I have a trust can which is basically hollow but looks cool.. not vented.. u know the one.

Whats the best option for say; 230rwkw or less, running either standard or hiflowed turbo, big intercooler, on 12psi constantly?

I think this suits alot of people...

Is this right?

Let's try this one, it's the open to atmosphere catch can;

The idea is to only have one connection from the cam covers as they are joined by the standard pipe. The PCV valve and the connection to the inlet before the turbo are blocked off. You can have a return (drain) to the sump form the catch can if you like. Don't T it into the turbo oil return as it is under a bit of pressure and the oil can run up into the catch can.

The other 2 options follow in separate posts. :D

SK doing it that way wont cause any probs to idling?Don't laugh but is the blow-by metered by the air-flow meter,coz after all it is air that has been metered.What i'm trying to get at but slowly :D is blow-by the same as air from a bov that is being vented to the atmoshere?

SK doing it that way wont cause any probs to idling?Don't laugh but is the blow-by metered by the air-flow meter,coz after all it is air that has been metered.What i'm trying to get at but slowly :) is blow-by the same as air from a bov that is being vented to the atmoshere?

Good question R31 POWER, but if your engine has enough blow by to cause idling problems, then it is not the blow by that you should be worried about. :spew:

Sorry for the delay, virus on the laptop :type:

This one I call the 50% plumb back, because half of the time (no boost times) the air from the catch can is being sucked into the inlet manifold via the PCV valve;

It is not my favourite, because you can still get a bit of oily air into the engine, but since it doesn't go in under boost (the PCV valve is closed then) detonation isn't much of an issue. At least you don't get any oil into the intercooler and its pipework.

The last is 100% plumb back, all of the air goes back into the engine. Some goes via the PCV valve, at times of no boost. When there is boost, it goes back via the inlet system, through the turbo, the intercooler and its pipework. :uh-huh:

The idea is the stainless steel wool, helped by the lower velocity in the catch can, catches the oil and removes it from the air before it goes back into the engine. This is the environmentalists favourite :alien: and is the easiest to get engineered.

SK,

How would you plumb it, if emissions were not an issue, as in a 100% race engine. Metohd 1, 2 or 3 ?

On the race cars we run open to atmosphere. We do run 2 pipes to the catch can and remove the joiner (standard) pipe between the cam covers. It's not really necessary on a road or combo car though, the one pipe does the job OK.

Hope that helps :)

So, would it be acceptable to plumb the PCV line to the catch tank, and leave the joiner as is, with the tank vented to atmosphere ?

As long as you block off the unused plumbing and fittings. I gotta ask why though? :confused:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...