Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

t28bb is a bolt on job. unlike the girly ecu in the skylines which has a cry at about 12psi on the stock turbo, the s13 ecu will take 15psi from the bigger turbo without missing a beat. i know plenty of people doing it. infact my mates missus had one on her 180 before they put the rb25 in it.

sr20 are timing chain motors, so no need for the big 100,000kms change like in the skylines.

as for lack of ecu upgrades, as i said above, the stock ecu on them will handle much higher boost levels than the skyline ecu. a mate of mine had his wastegate actuator stop working on the sr20 in his sigma at powercruise a few years back. he did the most of the weekend with unlimited boost and the ecu never cutout once. of course the turbo was blowing a bit of smoke by the end of the weekend, but you get that running 30psi or so through a stock turb

Thanks for that, I'm going to see a 95 one tomorrow that has all the afformentioned bits and a "larger" turbo I was speaking the owners father who didn't know what turbo the 'bigger' actualy was, he also informed me he had taken the car of his P plate liscenced son as, and I quote, "He kept getting stopped by the police" --fill in the blanks on that one if you want.

This is going to be interesting I'm thinking :D

  • Replies 86
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

i was at a similar point at the end of last year and went with a s14.

-better engine

-bigger brakes

-better chassis

-5 stud

list goes on. r33s are large cars and most that sell under $10k are in poor condition. series 1 s14s aren't as popular. a lot of people don't like the look even if it is exactly the same as the series 2 mechanically.

i was at a similar point at the end of last year and went with a s14.

-better engine

-bigger brakes

-better chassis

-5 stud

list goes on. r33s are large cars and most that sell under $10k are in poor condition. series 1 s14s aren't as popular. a lot of people don't like the look even if it is exactly the same as the series 2 mechanically.

;) Wow talk about gleaming paint ! thanks for that , I'm going to see how I go after I've looked at the two 180s tomorrow, both seem very nice on paper, however at the risk of being negative so did the three wrxs I looked at last week and I've yet to find an enemy I hate enough to wish any of those little junk heaps on.

I am optimistc these are a better proposition though.

I'd realy like to have a look at an actual s14 and/or15 though as I'm just not familiar attall with any of this range.

Get a few thousand more and go a S15. Seriously.

I have driven them all, have plenty of mates that own all the models and hands down the S15 has it in all deperatments (other than a weak 6 speed).

They are getting very affordable now, they are the last model of the Silvias so your getting the latest one, they don't feel that dated and in a few years time you won't want something newer.

A nice kit, a nice set of wheels, no spoiler, lowered and they look amazing. Don't get a gay sex spec 22" one and they will always look elegant.

turp_0804_07_z%201998_nissan_silvia_s15%20exterior.jpg

Edited by PM-R33

Thanks again everyone great help :thumbsup:

Aint that grand, looks like a hefty few bucks has gone into that little beauty very nice indeed

I've just cancelled the one of tomorrows I just noticed that the steering wheel had a six inch wear through wasn't untill I did a pic enhance that what I thought was a shadow became something else entirely.

I'm heeding your advice and starting to look at the s14 and 15s , are these AKA Silvias ? sorry to be dim here but I realy just don't know.

Edited by BASHO

yes BASHO they're silvias.. japan they're called "silvia" and in Aust they're called the 200sx..

same as how japan called their Z's "fairladys" and in aust we call then 300zx / 350Z / 370Z etc etc

it's GREAT to hear that you're looking into S14... and even nicer to hear you're looking into S15... put it this way - a few grand spent on getting a newer car - is money saved replacing parts in a few months time,

BASHO - tell me, did you even look at that soarer i posted you?? =)

yes BASHO they're silvias.. japan they're called "silvia" and in Aust they're called the 200sx..

same as how japan called their Z's "fairladys" and in aust we call then 300zx / 350Z / 370Z etc etc

it's GREAT to hear that you're looking into S14... and even nicer to hear you're looking into S15... put it this way - a few grand spent on getting a newer car - is money saved replacing parts in a few months time,

BASHO - tell me, did you even look at that soarer i posted you?? =)

:thumbsup: Thanks for that, every bit helps , no sorry mate I didn't check out the Soarer , Transfer fees are @ 4% on a V8 in Qld and rego sits at about $1150.00 PA and I believe maintenance can be costly especialy if something less than minor goes oval , I think they are fantastic vehicles though , just not for me. :blink:

thats not a v8 you peanut!! Its a 2.5lt single turbo vvti... Same motor as the jzx100 chaser, and it's manual... Features of that soarer:

Manual

Leather

Digital climate control

Cruise control

Trd parts all over

Trip computer

Short shifter

Dual airbags

Work rims

All for far cheaper than a silvia. Plus it's breakneck fast. Not pressuring you into a soarer but it's a very good package :D

:D Well another blowout

I don't know how anyone can describe car as immaculate when the paint fade on the roof is through to the 1st layer of primer, and the rest aint far behind ,the drivline has a clonk that is almost certainly a universal but could be -worse- the diff, the clutch is 25mm from the floor and grabs like a bitch on gin, there's a rattle coming somewhere from underneath , exhaust/heat shields ? WTFWK and the interior is so tired that it's comatose , the car drove and stopped OK and after you'd spent about $4000.00 tidying it up, it may get to be described as a grade 3-- by an optimist.

I was being asked $12K. :( cash,folding .

Excuse me whilst I :)

I'm going to see another one tomorrow , it'll likely be the last before I seriously consider bringing one in.

:( over.

Edited by BASHO
A lot can be said by the way the owner types his advertisements... just saying

True , but I have to hand it to some of these delusional flogopaths, they have to have taken a course in creational copywriying to be able to lay down the missinformation as they do , half the problem I think is that they believe the bullshit they're writing.

I just love it the selective deafness routine when there is an untoward knock or rattle---'WHAT NOISE" accompanied by a disbelieving puzzled facial expresion that indicates that you are hearing things or are deranged , a piston could come through the side of the block and they'd still maintain- "that's normal--- for this engine"

It's more of the same with the clutch that's about 20mm from the floor--"it's a performance clutch"--stated in such a manner as to indicate that anyone who didn't know that was a drongo.

AAAAAARRRGGHH , Truly, it'd all be fine if it wasn't for the total and absolute frakin time it wastes. :touch:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
×
×
  • Create New...