Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys

I am new to this site and my knowledge for skylines only go so far so your help and advice would be much appreciated. I have an option of buying a 1993 R32 GT-R or a 2000 R34 GT-T, they are around the same price. I was just wondering with reason as to why people would take one over the other? If you could list pros and cons that would be great.

Thanks heaps in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333407-r32-gt-r-or-r34-gt-t/
Share on other sites

try searching SAU

or

in Google type

site:skylinesaustralia.com "what you want to search"

basically R32 GTR is a cult Car as all GTR's

but they are getting very old and can be very very expensive to maintain, specially if you dont know what your looking for

R34 GTT are pretty new and hence will be more modern and Newer, most states you can not own either car with a P plate.

both can be modified and are anyway pretty fast even stock...

GTR will always have lot more following and respect than the its single Turbo RWD brother

  • 2 weeks later...
Hey Guys

I am new to this site and my knowledge for skylines only go so far so your help and advice would be much appreciated. I have an option of buying a 1993 R32 GT-R or a 2000 R34 GT-T, they are around the same price. I was just wondering with reason as to why people would take one over the other? If you could list pros and cons that would be great.

Thanks heaps in advance.

How many kms on the R32 GT-R odo Vernon?

If low, do the seats, carpet, key barrel, bodywork, suspension, bushes, engine, gear changes, dashboard reflect that?

No rust?

Services all done?

Any damage or major repairs?

Taken it to a Skyline specialist workshop for a good lookover for $125 approx?

If all the above is good > GO THE GT-R and come to the Event below!!!

On the other hand, the R34 GT-T is a good step up to the top. No sweat!

Pros of the GT-R

* power to the tarmac is more predictable

* better cornering

* higher speed on sweepers

* can brake later and accelerate earlier through a corner

* overall dynamics

* later models had upgraded brakes - but not sure about 1993

Cons of the R32 GT-R

* if it's old, it has seen better days

* lack of history means a suspect car

  • 1 month later...
  • 11 months later...

when asking the question of "r32 gtr or r34 gt-t" you have to ignore all the fanbois who just blindly say "go the GTR" and ask yourself what you want from the car. if it is going to be driven daily and you just want something with a bit of get up and go, then go the r34. if you want something to drive on the weekend but not on a daily basis, then go the gtr.

  • 2 weeks later...

speed on straights. they're about the same. raced a friends gtt the other week. he beat me just. i say each to his own. im a nissan nut so i bought the gtr. if ur looking for a skyline just for looks and streetability, go the 34. i get about 3-400km's per tank. and with the coilovers its a rough ride. but i do like the attention i get for owning it. no cops yet (touch wood)

so true man.

How many kms on the R32 GT-R odo Vernon?

If low, do the seats, carpet, key barrel, bodywork, suspension, bushes, engine, gear changes, dashboard reflect that?

No rust?

Services all done?

Any damage or major repairs?

Taken it to a Skyline specialist workshop for a good lookover for $125 approx?

If all the above is good > GO THE GT-R and come to the Event below!!!

On the other hand, the R34 GT-T is a good step up to the top. No sweat!

Pros of the GT-R

* power to the tarmac is more predictable

* better cornering

* higher speed on sweepers

* can brake later and accelerate earlier through a corner

* overall dynamics

* later models had upgraded brakes - but not sure about 1993

Cons of the R32 GT-R

* if it's old, it has seen better days

* lack of history means a suspect car

Hi, do you know if there is any skyline specialist wksp's in sydney pref Liverpool area?

cheers

First up, I don't trust anyone around Lansvale.

Best to use someone who doesn't want to sell you extras and knows their RB engines

To inspect your prospective buy, call

* JapLink at Haberfield 02-9716.0857

* Tunehouse at Marrickville 02-9557.4000

* Just Jap at Kirrawee 02-9545.0532

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • 🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...