Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys

I am new to this site and my knowledge for skylines only go so far so your help and advice would be much appreciated. I have an option of buying a 1993 R32 GT-R or a 2000 R34 GT-T, they are around the same price. I was just wondering with reason as to why people would take one over the other? If you could list pros and cons that would be great.

Thanks heaps in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333407-r32-gt-r-or-r34-gt-t/
Share on other sites

try searching SAU

or

in Google type

site:skylinesaustralia.com "what you want to search"

basically R32 GTR is a cult Car as all GTR's

but they are getting very old and can be very very expensive to maintain, specially if you dont know what your looking for

R34 GTT are pretty new and hence will be more modern and Newer, most states you can not own either car with a P plate.

both can be modified and are anyway pretty fast even stock...

GTR will always have lot more following and respect than the its single Turbo RWD brother

  • 2 weeks later...
Hey Guys

I am new to this site and my knowledge for skylines only go so far so your help and advice would be much appreciated. I have an option of buying a 1993 R32 GT-R or a 2000 R34 GT-T, they are around the same price. I was just wondering with reason as to why people would take one over the other? If you could list pros and cons that would be great.

Thanks heaps in advance.

How many kms on the R32 GT-R odo Vernon?

If low, do the seats, carpet, key barrel, bodywork, suspension, bushes, engine, gear changes, dashboard reflect that?

No rust?

Services all done?

Any damage or major repairs?

Taken it to a Skyline specialist workshop for a good lookover for $125 approx?

If all the above is good > GO THE GT-R and come to the Event below!!!

On the other hand, the R34 GT-T is a good step up to the top. No sweat!

Pros of the GT-R

* power to the tarmac is more predictable

* better cornering

* higher speed on sweepers

* can brake later and accelerate earlier through a corner

* overall dynamics

* later models had upgraded brakes - but not sure about 1993

Cons of the R32 GT-R

* if it's old, it has seen better days

* lack of history means a suspect car

  • 1 month later...
  • 11 months later...

when asking the question of "r32 gtr or r34 gt-t" you have to ignore all the fanbois who just blindly say "go the GTR" and ask yourself what you want from the car. if it is going to be driven daily and you just want something with a bit of get up and go, then go the r34. if you want something to drive on the weekend but not on a daily basis, then go the gtr.

  • 2 weeks later...

speed on straights. they're about the same. raced a friends gtt the other week. he beat me just. i say each to his own. im a nissan nut so i bought the gtr. if ur looking for a skyline just for looks and streetability, go the 34. i get about 3-400km's per tank. and with the coilovers its a rough ride. but i do like the attention i get for owning it. no cops yet (touch wood)

so true man.

How many kms on the R32 GT-R odo Vernon?

If low, do the seats, carpet, key barrel, bodywork, suspension, bushes, engine, gear changes, dashboard reflect that?

No rust?

Services all done?

Any damage or major repairs?

Taken it to a Skyline specialist workshop for a good lookover for $125 approx?

If all the above is good > GO THE GT-R and come to the Event below!!!

On the other hand, the R34 GT-T is a good step up to the top. No sweat!

Pros of the GT-R

* power to the tarmac is more predictable

* better cornering

* higher speed on sweepers

* can brake later and accelerate earlier through a corner

* overall dynamics

* later models had upgraded brakes - but not sure about 1993

Cons of the R32 GT-R

* if it's old, it has seen better days

* lack of history means a suspect car

Hi, do you know if there is any skyline specialist wksp's in sydney pref Liverpool area?

cheers

First up, I don't trust anyone around Lansvale.

Best to use someone who doesn't want to sell you extras and knows their RB engines

To inspect your prospective buy, call

* JapLink at Haberfield 02-9716.0857

* Tunehouse at Marrickville 02-9557.4000

* Just Jap at Kirrawee 02-9545.0532

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok I get you. But isn’t the butterfly intake a headache with the +T?  see this is my plan so far but please advise me into the right direction.  Nistune Ecu, 1000cc Bosch injectors, TD05 or TD06 Kinugawa turbo using stock rb25det exhuast manifold, walbro fuel pump unsure of model I think it’s 450/460, spitfire coils and sparks to suit and a R35 MAF sensor and boost sensor.    I was thinking maybe do a cheap eBay plenum $400-500 or try find a stock det neo intake. I think I’d port match it so it’s getting the full capacity but open to advice please.  Thanks 
    • The issue now is the 'fuel cut' while driving, and when it happend, it does not stall. This, I did not test the fuel pressure while driving as I cannot with a fuel pressure gauge. I do have Nistune logs, yes. I have also replaced the MAF Sensor.   Also related to the FPG Fuel Hanger – I just realized that I need a Deutsch Crimp Tool to crimp some cables for the FPG Fuel Hanger. Need to purchase additional cables as the kit only included 2, which are for the float. FPG has not responded to my emails so far since purchasing. I thought about taking it to someone and having it done professionally, but I am reluctant since everyone I took it to messed up in some way.  
    • There's a good German place in Brisbane if youre up for the drive 😛
    • The German place in Cabramatta was rock solid, fresh pretzel cooked to order back then. Then it went all quiet, after all the poker machines were removed, then I believe it closed for good. I did drive past the other week and noticed outdoor lighting a big screen, but no idea what is there now.  
    • Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
×
×
  • Create New...