Jump to content
SAU Community

1994 Gts/gtr Nissan Skyline R33. Will Not Dissapoint!

schnorky
 Share

Recommended Posts

schnorky Proficient

schnorky

Posted
Posted

Hey everyone,it's time to let go of my pride and joy. The reason I'm selling is that I just dot have enough time for it anymore and need spending money for overseas trip next year . This would be one of the cleanest 1994 r33 out in Sydney.

I have owned the car for 4 years and I'm the 2nd owner since it was personally imported into Australia. The first 2 years it's been in storage in my garage which was started once a week and taken for a drive around the block to keep all the running gear in working order.

The car was also Resprayed 4 Christmas ago ( Ford perlecent blueprint blue) and still is in pristine condition. It has an original r33 gtr front end, everything was done properly for the conversion from gtr bonnet hinges to the gtr bonnet latch, front reo and headlight spacers, this cost well over 4 grand for the conversion. It's a one of a kind gts. As for interier wise its in very good condition, all the trims and dash are straight and always conditioned. There is a cigi burn on the roof and one on the back seat from the last owner as I'm a non smoker and the drivers seat moves a bit but is still in very good condition for a 16-17 year old car

The car has never been in a accident and is clear on revs. There's around 3-4 unnoticeable small dents around the car but can easily be fixed. No rust spots at all as it's common for older skylines.

The r33 has always been serviced every 5-7 thou k's and gearbox and diff at 20thou k's by yafuz @ unigroup engineering a very trusted workshop, and no expense has been spared. Average round 400-450 km out of a tank which is very good for the power it makes. Always premium fuel used (shell v-power). Has a nice cat back exhaust system that's not loud at all just a nice rb growl.

Plenty of money spent on this car to get it how it is today, save time and money and buy a soft/mild tuned economic and reliable car. Also has top of the range mongoose m80s alarm.

That's about it, posibly one of the cleanest r33s on the road and needs a new owner to get some use out of it show it off.

Engine:

130xxxkms

Apexi PFC ($1200) tuned by yafuz @ unigroup make a safe 191.3 rwkws (tune cost 700)

Apexi boost controller ($430) max set to 12 psi ( always driven on low boost 7psi)

Hybrid front mount intercooler with saber fittings and clamps

Apexi intake filter

Highflow cat/back exhaust turbo world muffler

Greddy type s plumbed bov

Can supply most stock parts including ecu

Suspension/brakes/body

pedders shocks and lowerd springs ( front right knocks a little bit , can hear it sometimes when I reverse out of my driveway won't hear it anyothet time was going to replace with coilovers any way)

Front strut bar

New front brake pads

Resprayed 4years ago blueprint blue ($6.5k job) looks stunning after everywash

Front half gtr conversion ($5000)

Series 2 spolier

Explosive sideskirts bought from team jet speed

Will come with a trial rear bar unpainted bought recently ($240)

Price: $15,000 neg with 1 year rego

Location: castle hill

Contact: tilla 0402362885

Not interested in any trades atm

And needs to sell by the end of year so plenty of time.

please no time wasters as I'll can spot you out a mile away :(

Please don't comment unless interested cheers

Pm me for more pictures

519332e2.jpg

bef7ce7f.jpg

0c970a86.jpg

705f4826.jpg

791b72c0.jpg

schnorky Proficient

schnorky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Forgot to mention it has:

excedy twin plate clutch hard to get use to but very nice bitey clutch worth ( $2300)

5% tints all round with life time warranty

Mint original gtr rims with 70% tred

Hks turbo timer

Front foot well leds

Cyber stork white gauge dials

Greddy boost pillar with apexi el boost gauge

And havnt got a head unit for it as the other one stuffed up but has clairon 6 inch splits at the front and rca cables ready for amp and sub

And that's bout everything

Cheers

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
schnorky Proficient

schnorky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

$13,500 rego till mid next year

new excedy clutch

machined flywheel

machined all rotors

new front rear pads

just spent another 1500 on it!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • joshuaho96
      Cas issue

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • joshuaho96
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...