Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

sweet........

santa dropped by my place early this year :ninja:

most of my shiet have arrived.

big things such as exhaust/fmic ill get later on just before i fit the stuff up.

all i need now is ecu (tossing up between PFC or emanage), exhaust, fmic, & im done!!!!!!!!!

fuelpump, oil line & bleed valve/boost tee coming :laugh:

big thanks to all who supplied the parts to me;

justjap, rocket racing, niteworks, and users on sau.com & ns.com!

75ec1sj2.jpg

dpuo5.jpg

oilj2.jpg

oi2wb6.jpg

shsz0.jpg

strf9.jpg

st2qx2.jpg

tbim8.jpg

tthn8.jpg

And you're staying first quarter next year you'll have it all done?? Yeah Right!!! You won't last, you'll have all this in by xmas won't ya :D

I'm still finalising a few things but I'm hoping to have up n running this month in time for Xmas ;) Earlier would be better, should there be any other issues afterwards xmas wouldn't be the best time to sort them out lol

Can someone confirm the difference between an R34 4 Door Catback Exhaust and a 2 Door? One workshop tells me that they will be able to supply a second hand jap catback and that it won't matter if it's a 2 door? Or would they just customise it a bit? Oh that's another thing I don't have yet either..a turbo timer. I guess these can be easily added later though.

yeah turbo timers are easy to find for $50 & under.

4dr & 2dr catbacks are the same.

SSS autos in syd confirmed this for me.

and i found out that its the same in R32/R33's as well.

lol narh it will definately be next year, im saving up for PFC now..

let me know how u go with it ndawg.

got my turbosmart ultra gate & screamer today! WOOT!

niiiice!!! Well that clears things up then... I've seen exhausts listed as being for 2 door and others for 4 door specifically, but yeah now that I've got a second confirmation that makes things a bit easier with buying an exhaust now.

Hey Vikz...you still selling your zorst? hehehe

What's the difference between the N/A and GTT radiator? Is there much difference? I would to an extent base a decision on that. If Nissan have used the same radiator then go with that initially.

After doing the conversion, see how it goes with the stock radiator, and then make a decision whether to invest in an aftermarket radiator.

I never had any issues with overheating, to be honest the only time I ever saw the needle move from its normal position was in 38 degree heat in stationary traffic on Smith St after sitting there for 30mins

hey now i hope no one just tells me to read the full 19 pages which i did but wondering....

has anyone got a full list of the parts needed to do a turbo conversion to an rb25de?

gonna do it to my series 2 GTS4 and will make a full topic about with pictures and everything just need the full list of parts first thanks!

Also in this thread are some pics of the top of my engine using stock R33 parts for plumbing, you could get a custom made 90 degree with BOV flange made, that would be prettier :( Ignore the dirt, it had been sitting at the recovery impound yard for a bit.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...um-t243157.html

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...