Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That's nice! I'm not a huge fan of the green colour on skylines, but I don't mind that.

Can't say I've seen it though...I have seen a green Skyline (can't remember if it was a 33 or 34 now) in South Bank Brisbane, but I don't think it was that one.

Yeah that's a big saving definitely! JustJap have the PowerFC's listed about 2Gz now!

its ford headligght i think from xr8 or xt

had to sell it tho got defected to many to get clear. lol oh well. he would of gave it to me =[

anyways dont wanna change topic so if anyone reading im in need of all the bit to go turbo,

thanks

I've got a Turbosmart Single Stage Boost Controller if you want to use that..I want to go EBC due to the way the boost fluctuates on the R34 N/A.

How much are you looking to spend? That will dictate how much to spend. For example whether you want to use a factory manifold and factory R33/R34 turbo, or go for an aftermarket exhaust manifold and aftermarket turbo.

Do a search in the for sale and post up in the Wanted to Buy, should find some good bits there.

If you want a parts list I'm sure a few of us can put up a list of the parts we used to get you started.

I used a mix of aftermarket and factory parts. Pretty much everything was new/used aftermarket bits except for the injectors which I used GTT injectors, exhaust manifold was a factory item, and a R33 series 2 Turbo though I wish I held out till I found a good R34 one

mate has offered to sell me a complete factory series II turbo setup ( turbo, ECU, manifold, injectors, heatshield ) to bolt striaght onto my series 1 R33 NA. for $350. no shaft play etc...

couple of things i thought might be worht checking first tho, the NA fuel pump im guessing mightnt be enough, so will i need to get a GTSt/GTR one? or will it suffice for the short term. otherwise obviously it may run TOO lean. also, any extra lines i might need to run? (water, oil)

Not bad for $350!! Yes change the fuel pump.

GTSt or GTR like you said, or get a Walbro pump. Given the age I decided just to get a new Walbro GSS342 ( I think this is the same model for the R33?) Best to be safe and upgrade it from the start...plus saves retuning again later.

If you're running the stock turbo n all, you could probably go with a JJR Front/Dump Pipe from Just Jap...$200 does the job well, I used one myself. Hi Power Racing used different gaskets than what was supplied though.

What are you going to do in terms of intake cooling? Vic has the one intake mod rule yes? I would sooner try and get a factory airbox with a hi-flowpanel and run a FMIC on a high compression turbo setup.

iirc the R33 has the oil feed blanked off with a blanking bolt? With the R34 custom lines had to be made up, and there were a variety of ways it could have been done.

Edited by N-DAWG

it should, the loom is the same. and ndawg, got the factory dump pipe aswell so its all good.

sourcing a factory SMIC too, yes vic rules are actually quite restrictive, cant even have a turbo. SO, were doing a stealth job on it :domokun: hopefully will turn out alright, heatshields and the like cover it up farely well.

have factory airbox too btw

I see...in that case try to get the thicker core R34 SMIC to keep temps low. You realise that there are insurance issues as well with illegally driving a turbo car, yes?

Yeah use the airbox... the high compression starts making boost at 2,000 revs, and with a pod it is blatantly obvious that there's a turbo with the induction sound it makes.

well its 5am, got it all done an hour ago. couple of issues atm;

manifold gasket needs to be replaced (slight leek)

the turbo ECU i have doesnt prime the fuel pump (go figure, the mounts dont even match)

still need to get hold of a SMIC and turbo airbox by the looks (running an elbow from the plenum direct to turbo)

running a bit rich and obviously not to its full potential because of the stock ECU ( NA one )

need to move the atmospheric filter to a less obvious spot (mini pod filter)

was a fairly simple task, minus things like having to make custom hosing etc, and getting the injectors out (FUUUCK) sprayed most of the piping in engine enamel black too, so looks really neat. turbo is well hidden away.

all in all it runs fairly smoothly though apart from those issues, will post up pics tommorow of the current setup.

i am aware of the insurance issues, and many others...but yeah...have all the bits to convert it back to stock form if need be

ED: had to run the oil drain tapped into the VCT lines as there was none other tapped into the block. tapped into the heater hose for the water drain/feed (not sure as its too late and i want bed now!)

basically, when you turn your ignition to the second accesories point (where all the dash lights come on) but not start, you should hear the fuel pump (located in the boot next to and under the battery) prime..makes a high pitched sort of noise. and we got nothing with the turbo ECU. my theory is either the ECU was dodgy, or its not meant to for NA pump, OR its off a series 2 and that for some reason they have a different loom... any ideas?

we started at about 6.30 the night before, so it took about 7.5 hours in total...not bad

haha wherebouts your from calvin?

I don't see any logical reason why it wouldn't prime... my N/A pump primed, and the GSS342 Walbro pump primes also. Something doesn't sound right...

in the process of tracking down another ECU, and airbox/piping/cooler. has been running well today tho, minus the water feed rupturing :D all good tho, atleast it wasnt in a flamin mongrel of a spot to get at. have noticed it has a tendancy to stall a bit at low revs but im guessing thats cos the ECU isnt a turbo one.

heres some pics of the setup as of today :(

post-45120-1234683282_thumb.jpg

post-45120-1234683294_thumb.jpg

post-45120-1234683307_thumb.jpg

if the copper that pulls you over knows their shiet, they will look for the intake pipe and should know that it runs directly off the TB straight to the airbox (as all NA's do it). if you get a noob copper who doesn't know anything then you're lucky.

nice clean setup tho :)

ran out of coolant O_O turns out whoever did it last night (or this morning) had no idea how to bleed it in. all good now with a nice fill up, runs a bit better too :)

doris right, thats why i want to get the factory airbox/piping/cooler so its even less obvious

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, so widen your search to any Nissan speedo first, then go wider if needed. I will say though, that there is a better than even chance that what I said first will likely come into play. They quite possibly won't come apart without damage. I tried to disassemble a stepper gauge that I wanted to repair. There was no way that needle was coming off the spindle, and I could not see how the spindle would come out of the mechanism behind. Assembled once, never to be disassembled, was my conclusion. Could be the same on the R34 cluster. Failing that - take the cluster to a workshop that specialises in automotive instrument work. There's usually at least one in every Australian city. They'll either be able to do it for you for small cost, or tell you it can't be done. It might be that "it can't be done" unless you follow some arcane procedure, including trickiness to glue it back together or something, that only experienced techs know.
    • Well, given that I, an engineer, almost never bring out the torque wrench to tighten up chassis bolts, despite fully knowing the theory, and instead rely on feel, which I happen to know is exactly how the majority of mechanics do things, should tell you the level of actual peril that exists from not achieving exactly 88 Nm of torque. How about if I just say then that 88Nm is at the lower end of the correct wheel nut torque range? Everyone knows how to tighten a wheel nut, right? And almost no-one ever brings out the torque wrench for that task
    • Don't be ridiculous. "2-3 ugga duggas or one Oof. You have to use Oof on tie rods because you can't get an ugga dugga on there." Is not helping the guy at all.
    • I have done a lot of research before posting here and on gtruk forum. couldn't find anything. I have my gauges all part except the needle itself. the needle has a extremely small hole in the center, but the shaft going to the needle is extremely small and appears to have nothing to index it either. doesn't seem strong enough to simple pry or pull without damaging something. Already tried the old spoon trick on a extra triple meter I have from a gtt, but no luck. the center cap comes off easily but the hole in the meter face plate aren't big enough to get over the needle itself. figured this would be my best place to find someone who might have actually removed theirs. wonder if there is some type of small pin press tool to push the pin in while pulling the needle base off.
    • Ok...its taking me long enough to finally do this.  Feck financial security...heart disease will get me soon enough anyway So welcome to the garage..."Clem" Belsil80 has been running a 370Z in Super TT series. So after entering with him in last years Winton 300 i figured I  need my own car. Seems SAU Vic race cars need to be yellow....{tick} Reckon with enough motor i will be able to make up for the lack of talent and stay ahead of the 370Z... but the LS powered S13 and E36s are a ways up the road Aim is to have a car that doesnt stop or turn but has a bit of shed built motor with jam...maybe some cream  First step is getting this ex drift car log booked I am keeping faithful silver car. As the road-club car gets upgrades the race car wil get the sloppy seconds
×
×
  • Create New...