Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

g-day dan ive had the na rb20 in my 32 for a while now almost off the p plater law and was hopefully keen to slap a turbo on it.

besides all the main parts and pieces i was hopein you could help me out with wat little things i would need to make it possible? cheers :)

A guy I know literally threw on the factory turbo, ECU, injectors, fuel pump, fuel reg, exhaust and intercooler setup and it was good to go, seems the older the gen car, the better they run with just the essential gear swapped.

He was getting a 13.9 straight off

  • 3 weeks later...

G'day Guys, I'm looking at doing this to my R33 GTS, however I am a P Plater in qld :S...Say someone were to accidentally try and turbo my car what would they need? Also say the po po found out, would it be hard to take back out/tune?

Cheers Jake

G'day Guys, I'm looking at doing this to my R33 GTS, however I am a P Plater in qld :S...Say someone were to accidentally try and turbo my car what would they need? Also say the po po found out, would it be hard to take back out/tune?

Cheers Jake

they would need money...

if the popo found out tell them it got turboed by accident...

ya goose.

G'day Guys, I'm looking at doing this to my R33 GTS, however I am a P Plater in qld :S...Say someone were to accidentally try and turbo my car what would they need? Also say the po po found out, would it be hard to take back out/tune?

Cheers Jake

LoL.

keep all your stock gear handy :blush:

  • 3 weeks later...

I'm just going to throw this out there as it wasnt mentioned (and had a bit of a conversation with N-DAWG about it via PM).

Has anyone.... other than me attempted to get this done (i am as mechanically useful as a rabbit).. with the stock ECU? And in this example, I mean the GTT ECU.

Given Victoria's very stringent laws regarding ECU - What have the victorians doing this done to get around this problem?

Has anyone tried this - Or in my case, been forced to try this? Or is everyone else out there running a copgyback and hiding the thing?

I'm just going to throw this out there as it wasnt mentioned (and had a bit of a conversation with N-DAWG about it via PM).

Has anyone.... other than me attempted to get this done (i am as mechanically useful as a rabbit).. with the stock ECU? And in this example, I mean the GTT ECU.

Given Victoria's very stringent laws regarding ECU - What have the victorians doing this done to get around this problem?

Has anyone tried this - Or in my case, been forced to try this? Or is everyone else out there running a copgyback and hiding the thing?

I initially did it using the stock N/A (R33 GTS) ECU with a GReddy eManage hooked up only to compensate for the larger injectors initially... a SAFC would have done just as well... then just wound the timing back a couple of degrees to fix the knock and it went fine. I eventually got the whole motor rebuilt with the smaller turbo pistons so now I'm running a stock GTST ECU with no aftermarket management (rebuild warranty and all that... gonna wait it out then whack the eManage back on and get it tuned) and it goes quite well... I guess as well as a fairly new stockish 33 would have (though with a FMIC, bigger zorst, boost controller, etc).

I initially did it using the stock N/A (R33 GTS) ECU with a GReddy eManage hooked up only to compensate for the larger injectors initially... a SAFC would have done just as well... then just wound the timing back a couple of degrees to fix the knock and it went fine. I eventually got the whole motor rebuilt with the smaller turbo pistons so now I'm running a stock GTST ECU with no aftermarket management (rebuild warranty and all that... gonna wait it out then whack the eManage back on and get it tuned) and it goes quite well... I guess as well as a fairly new stockish 33 would have (though with a FMIC, bigger zorst, boost controller, etc).

That's all well and good - How is it running with the GTS-T ECU? The issue (so I am told) is at least on my R34 is that there's no boost sensor, so the GTT ECU goes a bit haywire as it understandably cannot detect any boost.

In addition I've been told in order to get it all setup reasonably okay, a loom from a R34 GTT would need to be sourced to get this all running.

However, havent heard anyone comment about this in the thread, hence my questions as to whether this is a R34 issue, or specifically only an issue with the stock GTT ECU (to stay legal), or whether its just incorrect information and the original loom can be used.

I'm not about to say anything against Ray & Co at RE Customs, so I doubt its the latter but found it interesting noone else had mentioned this issue about looms, and was curious as to why it's such an issue for lucky me.. and given the car has been there for about 5 weeks now waiting on a Loom I figured I'd ask the question, but I'm sure it's because I'm being a difficult prick and want the car to be legal to avoid getting done on it later, and having to make it legal anyway in the future.

That's all well and good - How is it running with the GTS-T ECU? The issue (so I am told) is at least on my R34 is that there's no boost sensor, so the GTT ECU goes a bit haywire as it understandably cannot detect any boost.

I'm lucky there... the R33's don't have a boost sensor! (Okay, they do, but it's only purpose is for the gauge on the dash... doesn't hook into the ECU at all)

On the R34s I believe this is a problem as the ECU does indeed 'see' boost (or a lack of it without the proper boost sensor and loom). You'd be better to stick with the N/A ECU and then just get some sort of basic air-flow signal adjustment (i.e. SAFC or the like) to compensate for the larger injectors. Wind the timing back a couple of degrees to prevent pinging and you should be fine.

...You'd be better to stick with the N/A ECU and then just get some sort of basic air-flow signal adjustment ...

...which leads me into the question regarding aftermarket ECU's and Managment with the aim of being 100% legal and whether anyone has done it before :wave:

...which leads me into the question regarding aftermarket ECU's and Managment with the aim of being 100% legal and whether anyone has done it before :wave:

Hmmm... 100% legal might be difficult (or expensive)... but if you are stealthy enough with your install of the SAFC or whatever it would be incredibly hard for anyone to pin you for it...

  • 4 weeks later...

Hey guys, just curious what you have done with your brakes. Have you done a 5 stud conversion with brake upgrade? If not how do the N/A brakes handle with the extra power. I normally down gear to slow down and only brake for complete stops - could i get away with the N/A brakes?

Hey guys, just curious what you have done with your brakes. Have you done a 5 stud conversion with brake upgrade? If not how do the N/A brakes handle with the extra power. I normally down gear to slow down and only brake for complete stops - could i get away with the N/A brakes?

My 33 already had a 5-stud conversion, so I didn't have to worry about it, but if you're only driving on the street, N/A brakes will be fine. Really, N/A vs. turbo brakes will only come into play when brake fade starts to kick in... i.e. on a track where you're leaning on them HARD corner after corner, but on the street I doubt this would be a problem. Sure your acceleration is improved, but that doesn't really mean you're going to be driving any FASTER... there's still speed limits, etc, so the stock N/A brakes should be fine.

I upgraded mine to R33 GTSt brakes. I did find the N/A brakes were more responsive and had a better initial feel, even after changing booster/cylinder to match the GTSt brakes... possibly something do do with the amount of fluid going through the calipers? or maybe simply the lower weight of the rotating parts?

I know when Dori done his conversion, particularly at the higher boost, he found that the N/A brakes were in need of serious upgrading.

You may get away with simply upgrading to slotted rotors, street/track suitable pads, braided lines (mainly if your brake lines are old) and a Master Cylinder Stopper to reduce firewall flex under heavy braking (also dependant on how bad the firewall flex is).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...