Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Excellent advise here! Never ride a big bike again and have your memory erased so cant remember what it was like. Cheapest way out of this.

I drove a 2L diesel van for 6 months whilst my car was off the road, peak power at 2500rpm and a redline of about 3200, that and it was about 20m off the ground, after that even my mums 1.5L civic felt fast!

  • Replies 107
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I drove a 2L diesel van for 6 months whilst my car was off the road, peak power at 2500rpm and a redline of about 3200, that and it was about 20m off the ground, after that even my mums 1.5L civic felt fast!

I do get that feeling also, I drive a truck for a living... 62tonne B-Double not exactly the fastest accelerating machine!

GTR feels like a Go-Kart after 12hrs driving.

I spend a few hours a day trolling threads and reading different results from peoples setups.

I'm set on getting to the 400kw mark when the time for upgrade comes so instead of have a toy in garage, I have a "Silly Toy"

Edited by Turbo Dave
  • 1 month later...

As much as I'd like to deny it, I am good friends with Ash. He's more misunderstood than a real tossbag :(

I did run an 11.2@127MPH with 347awkw on a stock 2.6L bottom end and 2860-5 with 19psi and super safe tune as dynoed at RE Customs. Drove in with 1/2 tank of fuel, dropped tyre pressures, ran back to back 11.2 and 11.3 along with 3-4 other runs which weren't as good, drove out to servo, pumped up tyres, filled petrol, drove home. Easy.

400rwkw on street tyres will net a 10 sec pass as long as you can launch properly. Everything in a GTR is at launch. After that, it's a pretty simple game.

I wouldn't be surprised if Ash does run a 10 with 400awkw. Even he couldn't fark up something this easy. LOL!

Well given he is a good friend of mine and we were actually discussing it yesterday, I'd be inclinded to believe my version. :D

You aren't the only one, plenty of cars out there are using factory dumps and making 330-380rwkw.

If you are so dead certain the car doesn't have anywhere near the power spend $80 and put it on another dyno and see, would be the first thing i'd do.

(i've gone from racepace to dr.drft, varience of a whopping 10rwkw)

Anyway, proof will be in the pudding - I'll remember this thread for a time when i run a 10 with factory dumps and -5's!

Till then :(

As much as I'd like to deny it, I am good friends with Ash. He's more misunderstood than a real tossbag :D

I did run an 11.2@127MPH with 347awkw on a stock 2.6L bottom end and 2860-5 with 19psi and super safe tune as dynoed at RE Customs. Drove in with 1/2 tank of fuel, dropped tyre pressures, ran back to back 11.2 and 11.3 along with 3-4 other runs which weren't as good, drove out to servo, pumped up tyres, filled petrol, drove home. Easy.

400rwkw on street tyres will net a 10 sec pass as long as you can launch properly. Everything in a GTR is at launch. After that, it's a pretty simple game.

I wouldn't be surprised if Ash does run a 10 with 400awkw. Even he couldn't fark up something this easy. LOL!

This is highly relevant to my interests, do you mind sharing your set up or specs ? that's pretty farken quick :thumbsup:

It was all pretty stock standard built engine mods I guess.

Intake & Exhaust

- Trust Drag 4" front mount intercooler (Twin entry)

- Custom 4" dump pipe from Turbo

- Apexi GT Spec 3.5" exhaust from dump pipe

- External (Screamer) 3.5" Seperate pipe on the Wastegate

Engine

Top End

- RB26DETT i6 24valve twin cam head

- Rod Smith Custom Group A cams

- Tomei Valve springs

- HKS 1.2mm metal head gasket

- HKS adjustable cam gears

Bottom End

- Wiesco Forged Pistons

- Nizmo Group A rods

- Balanced & machined crank

- HKS Oil pump

- GTR water pump

- ACL bearings

Turbo, ECU & Fuel

- Twin 2860-5

- Stock GTR piping

- Autronic SMC ECU modified for a GTR

- Autronic CDI

- Trust Profec B Boost Controller

- Aftermarket Jap 880cc twin feed Injectors.

- 2x Bosch 979 Fuel Pumps fed by stock GTR intank fuel pump.

- Custom built Racepace Motorsport oil catch can

- HKS ETC with drag apaptor

Drivetrain

- OS Giken Cross Mission gearset in Nissan factory housing with billet sandwhich plate

- Custom Built Jim Berry Clutch within Ogura Triple Plate Housing (4400lb Clamping Pressure)

Suspension & Brakes

- Tien RA fully adjustable coilovers

- 4 Piston Brembo Calipers front with EBC Greenstuff pads

- 2 Piston Brembo Calipers rear with EBC Greenstuff pads

Appearance

- 18x10.5 Bronze Weds SA90 forged rims

- 265/35/18

- 265/35/18

- Nismo style rear spats

- Tinted Windows

Interior

- Sparco race pedals

- Momo Race Steering Wheel

- Blitz 340 km/h dash

- Nismo center gauges

- Blitz DC Turbo Timer and boost gauge

Sound System

- Alpine head unit

- Alpine 12 disc stacker in boot

- Alpine front splits

- Alpine rear speakers

- 2x Alpine V12 amps

It was all pretty stock standard built engine mods I guess.

Intake & Exhaust

- Trust Drag 4" front mount intercooler (Twin entry)

- Custom 4" dump pipe from Turbo

- Apexi GT Spec 3.5" exhaust from dump pipe

- External (Screamer) 3.5" Seperate pipe on the Wastegate

Engine

Top End

- RB26DETT i6 24valve twin cam head

- Rod Smith Custom Group A cams

- Tomei Valve springs

- HKS 1.2mm metal head gasket

- HKS adjustable cam gears

Bottom End

- Wiesco Forged Pistons

- Nizmo Group A rods

- Balanced & machined crank

- HKS Oil pump

- GTR water pump

- ACL bearings

Turbo, ECU & Fuel

- Twin 2860-5

- Stock GTR piping

- Autronic SMC ECU modified for a GTR

- Autronic CDI

- Trust Profec B Boost Controller

- Aftermarket Jap 880cc twin feed Injectors.

- 2x Bosch 979 Fuel Pumps fed by stock GTR intank fuel pump.

- Custom built Racepace Motorsport oil catch can

- HKS ETC with drag apaptor

Drivetrain

- OS Giken Cross Mission gearset in Nissan factory housing with billet sandwhich plate

- Custom Built Jim Berry Clutch within Ogura Triple Plate Housing (4400lb Clamping Pressure)

Suspension & Brakes

- Tien RA fully adjustable coilovers

- 4 Piston Brembo Calipers front with EBC Greenstuff pads

- 2 Piston Brembo Calipers rear with EBC Greenstuff pads

Appearance

- 18x10.5 Bronze Weds SA90 forged rims

- 265/35/18

- 265/35/18

- Nismo style rear spats

- Tinted Windows

Interior

- Sparco race pedals

- Momo Race Steering Wheel

- Blitz 340 km/h dash

- Nismo center gauges

- Blitz DC Turbo Timer and boost gauge

Sound System

- Alpine head unit

- Alpine 12 disc stacker in boot

- Alpine front splits

- Alpine rear speakers

- 2x Alpine V12 amps

Awesome,

Cheers mate.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity.
    • 100% the factory sender is tapered, that is how it seals (well, that and teflon paste or tape)
    • Thanks folks - I've saved a few links and I'll have to think of potential cable/adapters/buying fittings. First step will be seeing if I can turn the curren abortion of a port into something usable, then get all BSPT'y on it. I did attempt to look at the OEM sender male end to see if it IS tapered because as mentioned you should be able to tell by looking at it... well, I don't know if I can. If I had to guess it looks like *maybe* 0.25 of a mm skinnier at the bottom of the thread compared to where the thread starts. So if it is tapered it's pretty slight - Or all the examples of BSPT vs BSPP are exaggerated for effect in their taper size.
    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
×
×
  • Create New...