Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Excellent advise here! Never ride a big bike again and have your memory erased so cant remember what it was like. Cheapest way out of this.

I drove a 2L diesel van for 6 months whilst my car was off the road, peak power at 2500rpm and a redline of about 3200, that and it was about 20m off the ground, after that even my mums 1.5L civic felt fast!

  • Replies 107
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I drove a 2L diesel van for 6 months whilst my car was off the road, peak power at 2500rpm and a redline of about 3200, that and it was about 20m off the ground, after that even my mums 1.5L civic felt fast!

I do get that feeling also, I drive a truck for a living... 62tonne B-Double not exactly the fastest accelerating machine!

GTR feels like a Go-Kart after 12hrs driving.

I spend a few hours a day trolling threads and reading different results from peoples setups.

I'm set on getting to the 400kw mark when the time for upgrade comes so instead of have a toy in garage, I have a "Silly Toy"

Edited by Turbo Dave
  • 1 month later...

As much as I'd like to deny it, I am good friends with Ash. He's more misunderstood than a real tossbag :(

I did run an 11.2@127MPH with 347awkw on a stock 2.6L bottom end and 2860-5 with 19psi and super safe tune as dynoed at RE Customs. Drove in with 1/2 tank of fuel, dropped tyre pressures, ran back to back 11.2 and 11.3 along with 3-4 other runs which weren't as good, drove out to servo, pumped up tyres, filled petrol, drove home. Easy.

400rwkw on street tyres will net a 10 sec pass as long as you can launch properly. Everything in a GTR is at launch. After that, it's a pretty simple game.

I wouldn't be surprised if Ash does run a 10 with 400awkw. Even he couldn't fark up something this easy. LOL!

Well given he is a good friend of mine and we were actually discussing it yesterday, I'd be inclinded to believe my version. :D

You aren't the only one, plenty of cars out there are using factory dumps and making 330-380rwkw.

If you are so dead certain the car doesn't have anywhere near the power spend $80 and put it on another dyno and see, would be the first thing i'd do.

(i've gone from racepace to dr.drft, varience of a whopping 10rwkw)

Anyway, proof will be in the pudding - I'll remember this thread for a time when i run a 10 with factory dumps and -5's!

Till then :(

As much as I'd like to deny it, I am good friends with Ash. He's more misunderstood than a real tossbag :D

I did run an 11.2@127MPH with 347awkw on a stock 2.6L bottom end and 2860-5 with 19psi and super safe tune as dynoed at RE Customs. Drove in with 1/2 tank of fuel, dropped tyre pressures, ran back to back 11.2 and 11.3 along with 3-4 other runs which weren't as good, drove out to servo, pumped up tyres, filled petrol, drove home. Easy.

400rwkw on street tyres will net a 10 sec pass as long as you can launch properly. Everything in a GTR is at launch. After that, it's a pretty simple game.

I wouldn't be surprised if Ash does run a 10 with 400awkw. Even he couldn't fark up something this easy. LOL!

This is highly relevant to my interests, do you mind sharing your set up or specs ? that's pretty farken quick :thumbsup:

It was all pretty stock standard built engine mods I guess.

Intake & Exhaust

- Trust Drag 4" front mount intercooler (Twin entry)

- Custom 4" dump pipe from Turbo

- Apexi GT Spec 3.5" exhaust from dump pipe

- External (Screamer) 3.5" Seperate pipe on the Wastegate

Engine

Top End

- RB26DETT i6 24valve twin cam head

- Rod Smith Custom Group A cams

- Tomei Valve springs

- HKS 1.2mm metal head gasket

- HKS adjustable cam gears

Bottom End

- Wiesco Forged Pistons

- Nizmo Group A rods

- Balanced & machined crank

- HKS Oil pump

- GTR water pump

- ACL bearings

Turbo, ECU & Fuel

- Twin 2860-5

- Stock GTR piping

- Autronic SMC ECU modified for a GTR

- Autronic CDI

- Trust Profec B Boost Controller

- Aftermarket Jap 880cc twin feed Injectors.

- 2x Bosch 979 Fuel Pumps fed by stock GTR intank fuel pump.

- Custom built Racepace Motorsport oil catch can

- HKS ETC with drag apaptor

Drivetrain

- OS Giken Cross Mission gearset in Nissan factory housing with billet sandwhich plate

- Custom Built Jim Berry Clutch within Ogura Triple Plate Housing (4400lb Clamping Pressure)

Suspension & Brakes

- Tien RA fully adjustable coilovers

- 4 Piston Brembo Calipers front with EBC Greenstuff pads

- 2 Piston Brembo Calipers rear with EBC Greenstuff pads

Appearance

- 18x10.5 Bronze Weds SA90 forged rims

- 265/35/18

- 265/35/18

- Nismo style rear spats

- Tinted Windows

Interior

- Sparco race pedals

- Momo Race Steering Wheel

- Blitz 340 km/h dash

- Nismo center gauges

- Blitz DC Turbo Timer and boost gauge

Sound System

- Alpine head unit

- Alpine 12 disc stacker in boot

- Alpine front splits

- Alpine rear speakers

- 2x Alpine V12 amps

It was all pretty stock standard built engine mods I guess.

Intake & Exhaust

- Trust Drag 4" front mount intercooler (Twin entry)

- Custom 4" dump pipe from Turbo

- Apexi GT Spec 3.5" exhaust from dump pipe

- External (Screamer) 3.5" Seperate pipe on the Wastegate

Engine

Top End

- RB26DETT i6 24valve twin cam head

- Rod Smith Custom Group A cams

- Tomei Valve springs

- HKS 1.2mm metal head gasket

- HKS adjustable cam gears

Bottom End

- Wiesco Forged Pistons

- Nizmo Group A rods

- Balanced & machined crank

- HKS Oil pump

- GTR water pump

- ACL bearings

Turbo, ECU & Fuel

- Twin 2860-5

- Stock GTR piping

- Autronic SMC ECU modified for a GTR

- Autronic CDI

- Trust Profec B Boost Controller

- Aftermarket Jap 880cc twin feed Injectors.

- 2x Bosch 979 Fuel Pumps fed by stock GTR intank fuel pump.

- Custom built Racepace Motorsport oil catch can

- HKS ETC with drag apaptor

Drivetrain

- OS Giken Cross Mission gearset in Nissan factory housing with billet sandwhich plate

- Custom Built Jim Berry Clutch within Ogura Triple Plate Housing (4400lb Clamping Pressure)

Suspension & Brakes

- Tien RA fully adjustable coilovers

- 4 Piston Brembo Calipers front with EBC Greenstuff pads

- 2 Piston Brembo Calipers rear with EBC Greenstuff pads

Appearance

- 18x10.5 Bronze Weds SA90 forged rims

- 265/35/18

- 265/35/18

- Nismo style rear spats

- Tinted Windows

Interior

- Sparco race pedals

- Momo Race Steering Wheel

- Blitz 340 km/h dash

- Nismo center gauges

- Blitz DC Turbo Timer and boost gauge

Sound System

- Alpine head unit

- Alpine 12 disc stacker in boot

- Alpine front splits

- Alpine rear speakers

- 2x Alpine V12 amps

Awesome,

Cheers mate.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It could be in the tune but in both cases it couldn't be completely solved or eliminated by some of the best tuners in victoria so I'm DOUBTFUL that it's in the tune or ECU but stranger things have happened of course. I've pondered that theory too but is there any theories that thinner and smaller ports overall would cause a turbo to spike? I would've thought it would just restrict it in general if it was small enough to make a difference. I wouldn't expect it to make a different at what is essentially sub 300kw at 4000rpm anyway. I think the next step is going to have to be the 6psi spring to rule out the idea that the gate is cracking open far too wide initially. At least that is the cheapest (free) thing to check initially.
    • I'm thinking it is skinny NA Neo port sizing and cams. Somehow.
    • -5鈥檚 did it. 8474 did it. Not hot side related. ECU related? 馃え馃お
    • Above you mentioned you only need to sand primer if there's an issue with it but with fillers it says the surface needs to be sanded to X grit beforehand. Does that sorta contradict that point as the primer hasn't been sanded yet? At the same time if I sand the primer, there's a good chance I'll expose the bare metal and I'm just chasing my tail at that point. Or I'll just use a sand sponge instead of sandpaper, it seems to be far finer in terms of abrasiveness as opposed to sandpaper. From what I understand, filler is like primer and needs scratches from the sandpaper to help it adhere to the panel. I realised the way I'm doing things is actually a bit counter productive as there's a chance after I put filler I will need to put epoxy primer again as opposed to putting the filler first and potentially no primer if I don't go to bare metal. Will keep this in my mind for the rest of my repairs.
    • Not without making up a new screamer pipe from scatch I don't think based upon the angles of the current return. Backpressure shouldn't be an issue though as the straight gate isn't affected by backpressure in the same way that a poppet valve is, and on top of that the exhast system is 4" all the way through so there should be minimal pressure if any to begin with.
  • Create New...