Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Vibration and shudder coming from rear only in 5th gear

starts and seems worse at about 2800-3000rpm (110-120kmh)

Most noticable on moderate throttle, just before boost comes on, its hard to tell if its there when boost comes on since the engine gets a bit noisier but on hard acceleration it smoothens out..

Same speed or same RPM in 4th gear is fine, smooth as.... only 5th gear

any help would be much appreciated..!!

FYI- i have brand new tyres put on 2 weeks ago, Done a wheel alighnment with rear camber adjusted and front toe adjusted, also done wheel balancing twice on all four wheels as the first time they didnt do it properly..

the second wheel balance the guy said 3 of my wheels (Front left, and 2 rears) are buckled..not sure if this could be the cause of vibration but i do know that this is why my steering wheel vibrates..

Wheels are 18 x10.5 all round with them wrapped in 265 35's..

Thanks in advance..

B

your wheels being buckled would have no reason for it to shudder in 5TH GEAR ONLY

if it was your wheels it would shudder on any gear at a certain speed

on another note you shouldnt be driving on buckled wheels

especially at 110kmph

ill be honest and not put the heat on you about that

i have done the same but have been careful and the max speed i was on was around 60kmph

Moodles2- Nah Tail isnt sliding out at all.. I disconnected Hicas but removing all the plugs around the diff anyway..

Gach2- Good point..but only happened recently so not driving it as much as i should..and stupid potholes near city is what caused it, trying to get a hold of council to pay damages..!

Stay steady on 110 and see if shudder is quite pronounced.

Then accelerate and/or decelerate and see if it disappears whilst still in 5th.

Then try and see if it shudders again at a steady 120 or 100.

If so, get the car up on a hoist and check the joint in the middle of the tailshaft and see if it's weak.

  • 6 months later...

Terry, appolagies for the delay.. was on holidays for a while... :)

Stay steady on 110 and see if shudder is quite pronounced.- yes it is pronounced..

Then accelerate and/or decelerate and see if it disappears whilst still in 5th. -seems better when i accelerate (goes away) - however when i deccelerate from 110 its still there, also when i put in 4th gear noise goes away..

Then try and see if it shudders again at a steady 120 or 100. - yes it does.

Im leaning towards oil/HICAS as yesterday HICAS light came on while on the freeway but then turned off when car switched off...

any advice is appreciated.

Thanks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Order for the 2025 model R35 GT-R were accepted from 3rd March and 26th August the last order rolled off the production line at the Tochigi plant. Concerning the R35 GT-R replacement, current Nissan CEO Ivan Espinosa said "Nothing has been decided about the GT-R at this time, but we are well aware that everyone is waiting. The GT-R will evolve and reappear in the future. Please be patient until that day comes." Nissan has a lot of issues with management and finances so take Espinosa's words with a big grain of salt. From what discussions I've had and read about here in Japan, not a lot of people are confident about Nissan's future, let alone the next GT-R. 
    • Thanks. We getting some parts along too so he will be solving the speed issue like next week so i will let you know what he came up with.   
    • 21 is explicitly the coils detected as the issue. Is it guaranteed the actual issue? No. Just the ECU thinks it is. When you say rattling, describe it better, get an audio clip as best you can if possible.
    • Yea got me coppers. Bad news is I just put them in and the car still has the light and shakes. I also noticed I hear like rattling coming from the exhaust piping right under me. Does 21 also have a possibility of being O2 sensors?   So, coil packs are good, the harness is good, the MAF is working, and obviously the spark plugs just replaced and working.
    • Make sure you drop the GTT base tune back in, and set your injectors again, this will remove anything playing up with it you may have removed. Possibly lean there as it's normally a fast transient going THROUGH atmospheric pressure, and a turbo motor would then quickly go richer as boost builds. The only worry you MIGHT have is ignition timing, as the DE is higher compression than the DET from memory. But again, you're not in boost, so the DE motor will be a lot more forgiving at atmospheric.   Get Murray, Kinkstahs, and Johnny's input on tuning haltechs, those guys have played with tuning enough in the past to be able to help now you're past the trouble shooting stage of the MAP issue
×
×
  • Create New...