Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Damn not another one.. this really sucks. Hope everyone is parking there cars somewhere safe and get clublocks and alarm/immobiliser. Atleast it will take a while for them to steal it.

that sucks mate...... but it is port adelaide?, a dump

and no alarm, just asking for it. parking on the street is like having a flag on it in neon, "steal me"!!

at least you got it back in fixable condition not smoking still.

so I take it your first item to buy is a ADR approved alarm ?

wish the police would actually put the car theft crims behind bars, not a slap on the hand off you go.

farking scum in this town who steal cars and trash them.

Yeah port adealide is pretty dodgey looking area. This is like a really new subdivision right next to Port Adelaide. The street is completely off the road and there is only one way in and out. So it's not like these losers just happened to be cruising by and saw my car. It's likely they specifically targeted this area because it's a fairly rich area, and of course my skyline was like the only cool car parked on the street (apart from a yellow R34).

I'm so pissed off that I didn't make it a challenge to steal. I mean it's so easy to immobilise your own car even if you don't have an immobilisor. You just pull out wires and fuses, take out the battery or pull off the steering wheel. All of which I will be doing the next time I park in a dodgey place.

Insurance rang and they are going to fix it up and sort it all out, they have been really good about it all. So at the end of the day it's just gonna cost me for the excess.

I guess I was lucky it wasn't a smoldering pile of metal and all of my belongings were still in the car, my toolbox and a $700 car dvd player was left intact.

Hope everyone can learn something from this. It's just unfortunate I didn't read about all the stolen skylines in this section before it actually happened to me.

when i had my towing business i recovered plenty of cars that had a club locks. fitted ..... they just bend the steering wheel with a jemmi bar and the club lock falls off more a visuaul detearent i think for the tham amauters .

glad the insurence is doing the right thing by ya .

cheers dean

man that really sucks, hope u all got alarm PLUS immobiliser AND club locks in your cars, spend a few dosh on these items and its better for u in the long run,.. farrk man, those scumbags, I wish I could smash their faces with a baseball bat or steel pipe or whatever, as a owner of an import that I love, I feel for ya man..dont give up mate, life goes on

Was this Skyline supposed to be in a wedding in 2 weeks time? I have been asked for my V35 to be a replacement car for a Skyline that was stolen from Newport last week.

Sorry to hear man. Hopefully the filthy crooks hurt themselves when they crashed it.

Was this Skyline supposed to be in a wedding in 2 weeks time? I have been asked for my V35 to be a replacement car for a Skyline that was stolen from Newport last week.

Sorry to hear man. Hopefully the filthy crooks hurt themselves when they crashed it.

It was supposed to be in my brothers wedding in a month's time. Hopefully it's all fixed up in time... I have no idea how long crash repairs take.

takes 2 sec to unplug the ignitor in the engine bay and the fuel pump in the boot

then click the little latch in on the boot catch so you need a key to open the boot

presto unstealable or will atleast you'll wake up from the sound of them trying to start it with nothing happen

my fav was the fuel pump trick

Edited by 1400r

also try and buy the car back from insurance comp if its written off as a repairable write off....then see if you can fix it or make it in to a project.....or just sell the parts individually and make some $$ that way

No it doesn't look too bad but turns out there is damage to the suspension and they would need to pull the engine out. So they're writing it off. Oh well I'll have to get a GTR just like Krishy suggested.

Buy a clublock and an alarm + kill switches and hook them all up as soon as you buy it, being a GTR and I'm guessing it'll be parked in or around that port Adelaide area you'll need a few things to stop them, don't know how, but theives are getting smarter, must be a 'how to' guide to stealing cars book, or 'stealing cars for dummies' book..

Buy a clublock and an alarm + kill switches and hook them all up as soon as you buy it, being a GTR and I'm guessing it'll be parked in or around that port Adelaide area you'll need a few things to stop them, don't know how, but theives are getting smarter, must be a 'how to' guide to stealing cars book, or 'stealing cars for dummies' book..

I can tell you that I wont be parking a skyline ever again in the port adealide area. Not without removing a wheel or something.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...