Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, i always thought there was a bit of a problem with my r33 s1 gtst but i confirmed it tonight. Ive had it for a few months now and its been this way since ive had it. It seems no where near as responsive as it should be, the power is there... eventually but most of the time it feels like im driving a 1.6L pulsar until the boost comes on.

The car is stock and tonight i took my mates 180sx out for a drive which is also stock.

WOW... His car feels so much faster then mine, when i put my foot down it actually goes somewhere, i feel so ripped off. I was in 3rd and the wheels started spinning, thats never happened to me in 2nd gear.

At first i thought my clutch was slipping but a mechanic mate told me how to test that and it seems fine.

Also the car seems like its going off its head, like its working way too hard at higher rev's, ive watched vids of stock r33's and they sound good at high rev's where mine sounds like the pistons are about to punch right through. The oil gauge never drops below 4kg per inch or watever it is either.

Any ideas?

Thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335666-r33-gtst-power-issues/
Share on other sites

The only way to know for sure would be to remove the turbo and have a look. Or possibly check the cat convertor and see if its damaged inside or has any extra bits in there. Im sure some of the guys on here that started with stock 33s would know more.

Ive never driven a stock 33 so dont know what they are like with stock boost and response. Mine had a TD06 with 245rwkw when I bought it.

how accurate is a digital Tacho? Ive got one in my turbo timer which is showing waaaay different to what the dash tacho is showing , could explain why at 4k in dash tacho it sounds nuts.

Firstly my understanding is the car is meant to idle at 650rpm? indash its showing idle of about 1000 rpm and the turbo timer is showing it as 1650rpm when i rev is a bit to 2k indash , its shown as 3k in the turbo timer tacho.

Mayve the car is lacking torque. What would cause this?

Edited by XeKayeM
wouldnt that effect the idle aswell though? because it idles smooth

Not necessarily. :P

You don't need to pull the turbo off to check the blades, just pull off the dump / front pipes.

Stick with the factory tacho, if it is reading 1,000rpm then something is wrong bringing up the idle (air leak) or you need it adjusted.

if the turbo timer is setup wrong then it will show your rpm being different to the dash.

as for the idle at 650rpm, that all depends on whether the air con is on or not, as well as the temp of the car. it will idle higher when it's cold.

for the power bit, your mates 180sx spinning the wheels in 3rd doesn't mean it's much more powerful, just has crappier tyres, especially if the car is stock. they also do feel a bit faster than a 33.

there are a few things you can do to find some possible causes of your issue. first, what rpm are you making full boost? with the stock turbo at 7psi it should be making full boost by well under 3000rpm. if it is higher than that then you either have an issue with the wastegate or it could also be caused by timing or fuel issues. secondly get a timing light and check the timing. if this is too retarded then you will have poor performance and advancing it a bit can make a world of difference. thirdly, if you still can't find any issues, take it to a workshop and put it on a dyno. this will tell you what power it's making and what the air/fuel mixtures are like. if the timing is fine and the AFR's are fine and it's making low power then more than likely it's just your engine that's stuffed. getting a compression test done would tell you whether it is or not.

it could be a few other things though. the cat converter could be blocked, the air filter could be crappy, the afm could be stuffed, the timing belt could've jumped a tooth, and many others. might not even be engine related. might be that you have brakes that are sticking on, or tight wheel bearings.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
    • Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
    • I'm working on the assumption that our friend Jasmine here is a Russian (or, possibly Ukrainian) spammer/spambot, based purely on the number of such that I have been having to neuter in the last few weeks. IP address for the OP above was in WA. But that could have been via VPN. Posting at quarter to 4 in the morning is a good sign of being from somewhere in Europe. The last Jasmine that I kicked in the cooch was IP addressed in Ukraine. Even that could have been via VPN, and the bitchbot could have been from Russia, Serbia, China or anywhere. Regardless, was a spambot, so I killed it with fire. The fact that our new friend Jasmine here did not respond in any way to my tart query strongly suggests to me that this OP was just the establishment phase of a user able to be activated for spamming in a week, or 3 or 10.
×
×
  • Create New...