Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

For the right price, I will let the following go:

- R33 S1 RB25DET - 127xxxKM - Complete motor, manifolds and all $1000

- R32 ECU, Splitfire coilpacks, Z32 AFM, 690cc injectors, complete harness - Tuned to suit complete setup $800

- HKS 3037 pro S - Turbo, HKS dump (suits factory location), water+oil lines, 3" metal intake, silicon joiners (complete setup bolt on turn key) $2500

- R33 GTST Gearbox - Clutch, lines, all accessories, tailshaft (exchange with whatever nissan shaft you have). $1200

This setup is everything you will need to have the kit BOLT UP AND TURN ON in your car. The only things that are not included are the FMIC and the front pipe back exhaust.

The dump that is included with the turbo is the GENUINE HKS ITEM designed for the pro S and to suit factory bolt up location in a GTST. This will bolt into all R32/33/34.

I would prefer to sell the lot AS A PACKAGE. I WILL DISCOUNT A LOT OFF THE PRICE TO DO SO. But, I warn, low ballers will be punished :).

This would be PERFECT for someone with a R32 GTST. All you will need is an exhaust and a front mount (which most of you have) and viva la 300rwkw.

Reason for sale: custom conversion.

PM only at this stage, drop the deposit and I will remove it all from the car.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336009-eoi-full-rb25det-hks-3037-setup/
Share on other sites

Wiring harness to suit a 32?

R33 repinned for 32 ECU.

Will supply entire engine harness. This is a turn key package, out of my car running, into your car running.

can you please give more specs on the turbo???

ie what rear housing?? shaft play??? etc

thanks

Turbo is in perfect working order.

No shaft play, purchased from eldorode666 on this forum recently and sourced via HKS themselves. Unit has roughly 10,000Km on it.

.87 rear housing, internal gated.

Make good note that the HKS dump pipe to suit SKYLINES is INCLUDED. As is a HKS big can actuator.

The setup is in the car and running. Comes with everything you need to bolt it to your motor and have it run. Comes with intake and meets up with any aftermarket front pipe made for a skyline.

I would prefer to sell everything in one hit, but I will consider parting the larger items first.

Cheers,

what power did it make on what boost and mods?

Its tuned, but I honestly have not run it on the dyno. The tune was done by CEFF1E and will be reliable.

I can see to having it tweaked if a touch up is necessary. The car can be viewed running, but I do not have an FMIC so I will not be winding the boost up.

Morning all,

To all PMing;

Once the turbo setup is sold, I will be happy to start separating parts. I will put up a revised price list once that takes place, for individual items.

Cheers,

Bump - Have interest but is still officially available at this stage.

First in best dressed.

Sell complete for a song or part out once turbo kit is sold.

Willing to accept non refundable deposit to hold, car is not being driven so your investment will be sound.

Gearbox will either be sold with the setup or once the turbo sells. Same goes for the motor.

If the turbo setup sells first Ill part the rest out one bolt at a time if I have to. If the turbo doesnt sell theres no other sales.

Items currently available:

Long motor $1000

Gearbox $1200

Seems like turbo kit and electronics are pending sale.

Also have a BRAND NEW JJR STEALTH INTERCOOLER KIT. I bought it on saturday and decided to part out tonight, no longer need the cooler kit... $500. I threw the boxes out and bolted it to the car.. Its been start and driven from the top of the driveway back to the garage :) Sydney pickup only.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...