Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

im really lost for ideas atm I wanna make my engine look pretty as most of you guys would likes yours.

so if you have and tips and ideas and would be great if you could let me know.

im located in brisbane if there are any places here that dress up engines

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336443-rb25-engine/
Share on other sites

If its a streeter I would avoid shinny stuff, Ive painted my cam covers-IC pipes-filter enclosure and catch can with a matte black VHT crinkle type finish paint, looks good and almost stockish, also gave my front mount a coat of flat black for the :P effect.

If you go all shinny its more likely that it could get defected, to the police shinny usually means modified which equals defect.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336443-rb25-engine/#findComment-5442182
Share on other sites

yeah very true man. yeah not gonna go the hole shinny way just want it to look nice and clean and what not maybe only paint the rocker cover a silver thats bout it i guess. where do you get that black matte finish paint from?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336443-rb25-engine/#findComment-5442353
Share on other sites

^^^ hahaha.. yes officer.. these do come standard with a highmount manifold..

+1, use as much black spray can as you want but it wont hide a highmount haha

also i wouldnt spray paint the fins of a intercooler if you want the stealth black should buy one that is ceramic coated as the paint restricts it from dissipating heat and holds it in.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336443-rb25-engine/#findComment-5443407
Share on other sites

+1, use as much black spray can as you want but it wont hide a highmount haha

also i wouldnt spray paint the fins of a intercooler if you want the stealth black should buy one that is ceramic coated as the paint restricts it from dissipating heat and holds it in.

My high mount has had the OK from the RTA inspection stations on 3 occasions and the whole car will be enginnered when the new motor goes in, only thing that needs changing is the catch can vent which vents to atmosphere, also if you ceramic coat the I/C it will trap the heat inside and not act as a heat soak, a light coat of paint to the outside is far superior as it will still let the heat excape from the I/C (heat sink), this is also why you paint a plenum and not use a ceramic coating.

You are allowed to do lots of mods to your car as long as you follow the details given by the RTA for modifications and if it outside of the guidelines all you need to do is build it properly so you can get it legaly enginnered.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336443-rb25-engine/#findComment-5443544
Share on other sites

+1, use as much black spray can as you want but it wont hide a highmount haha

also i wouldnt spray paint the fins of a intercooler if you want the stealth black should buy one that is ceramic coated as the paint restricts it from dissipating heat and holds it in.

its fine if u do a light coat

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336443-rb25-engine/#findComment-5443586
Share on other sites

cheers boys for all the the tips the foward plenum idea looks good will have to go that way i think. Im obvisouly abit of a noob atm love cars but dont relly now shit lol but its all in the name of good fun.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336443-rb25-engine/#findComment-5444442
Share on other sites

i went with a foward facing plenum boys should be her tomorrow or wednesday! the reason why i got it so quick is that my fuel rail wouldnt fit with the standard inlet manifold.

do u have an aftermarket ecu???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336443-rb25-engine/#findComment-5460384
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...