Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Up for sale is my beautiful black Series 1 1995 33GTR V-Spec.....I have has this for about 6 months however I was being silly and hit a gutter about a month ago and caused a small amount of damage to the front of the car.....As i was uninsured and dont have the time nor the patience to search for parts etc I have decided to put it up for sale. The car has been built for racing and is a freak and must be seen to be beleived....

I have had the damage looked at by a panel shop in Slacks Creek and have been quoted $1500 inclusive of labour and everything to fix it (excluding cost of parts) I know its not much but im having a struggle finding parts and I cant be assed anymore so for sale it goes!

I had just had it dyno'd at 400hp at all 4 wheels (with dyno sheet) on safe tune 13psi and the next day i hit the gutter being a tool on semi-slicks. Anyhow.... a list of mods is as follows and I have receipts for all work done:

V-spec (Godzilla) High Performance Imports mag feature car!!!

N1 pistons and rings (with rebuild recipt),

HKS cams gears,

600cc injectors,

2x Garrett N1 turbos rebuilt and high-flowed with dual ball bearing centres currently running 13psi (built to handle 30 psi),

PWR front mount intercooler,

Turbosmart boost controller,

GFB bov,

K&N air filter,

Apexi PowerFC,

4 inch titanium exhaust,

water cooler system to intercooler and radiator,

Drummond suspension (fully adjustable),

heavy duty clutch,

heavy duty close cut gearbox,

full double cross over roll cage (no rear seats),

full fire bomb firefighter system to cabin and engine with control switch,

r-spec rear brakes with floating discs,

carbon fibre rear wing,

GTR front lip,

2x rally Sparco pro 2000 racing seats with 2x Willans 5 point racing harnesses,

Nismo 320kph dash cluster,

Sparco steering wheel,

Kenwood cd player and speakers,

full killswitch pull tag system,

limo black tinted windows,

Hicas eliminator

Aditional braded lines etc.....

Also throw in a HKS Kansai style carbon fibre GT Wing as wel....

VOLK GT-C 19 x 10.5 +21 wheels with Bridgestone RE-01 Semi-Slicks (only 1 drive old!!)

The car is an absolute monster and I am after $25,000 ONO as is and am open to swaps as well!! Also let me know if I am being silly and I should keep it and not sell it - your opinion is invaluable!

I dunno what else to say its very emotional putting this car up for sale but if i do find reasonably priced parts soon I will be keeping it!!

Pics of the car are attached but are not recent with VOLK's on and pic of the damage can be MMS'd to you as i have not had a chance to take pics since the car was damaged.

I am contactable on 0405 382 754 anytime.....or PM me here. Finally, car is located in Brisbane and I will truck it interstate at your expense

Cheers

Himmy!

post-71783-1285288175_thumb.jpg

post-71783-1285288184_thumb.jpg

post-71783-1285288223_thumb.jpg

post-71783-1285288236_thumb.jpg

post-71783-1285288250_thumb.jpg

post-71783-1285288282_thumb.jpg

post-71783-1285288292_thumb.jpg

post-71783-1285288300_thumb.jpg

post-71783-1285288314_thumb.jpg

post-71783-1285288324_thumb.jpg

post-71783-1285288350_thumb.jpg

post-71783-1285288362_thumb.jpg

post-71783-1285288382_thumb.jpg

post-71783-1285288407_thumb.jpg

post-71783-1285288431_thumb.jpg

Edited by HIMMY
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/337995-33gtr-ready-to-race/
Share on other sites

Is this Mark Taylors old car?

Sure is!!!

its got a mean set of proper wheels on it now though and has been expert tuned running all the best oils and everything :-)

Mate 400hp at all 4 wheels on 13psi safe tune :-) can push it to 30psi for dyno runs......YUMMMM

If its not a quick sale then i'll keep it....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...