Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gts-t Having Rings/ Pistons Replaced. What Would You Do At Same Time?

awhiteone

By awhiteone,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

awhiteone Enthusiast

awhiteone

Posted
  • Author
Posted
A factory motor is more than fine - depending on the application.

Hence if you tell us how much you have to spend, what your intended use of the car is etc etc - people can help rather than just keep throwing ideas around that might not offer you any real benefit at all.

Stock heads are fine, stock bottom ends are also FINE if you only want say 250rwkw.

So why put forged pistons, rods, N1 pumps etc etc spending cash on the head and all sorts of stuff in there?

All you need is a new turbo, dump, injectors, AFM, ECU, clutch etc - That's 5k just there.

Dont forget suspension, most likely some attention to brakes and then suddenly its 7k-8k-9k

Ok, so i'm not going to be racing the car for the forseeable. It's got to be a reliable daily driver firstly, and up to 250rwkw would be more than adequate for my needs for a long time, I'll maybe have $2-3k extra to spend a year on it so I'm not chasing massive power.

So it does seem i'm best saving my money for now and just getting the car back in a running start first eh.

Looking at the brakes will be one of the first things I do though since they don't pull it up quite as well as I thought they should, then start having a good look at anything else that's not been kept on top of maintenance wise. I'm learning more about all the other mods I can do and mostly bolt on, so I'll start making a plan for those things after it's reliable first.

awhiteone Enthusiast

awhiteone

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Is it a car yard? Im guessing they will give it a quick hone in the car, new rings and slap it back together. If the piston is damaged, they will only replace one with a factory item(they are $80) Thay really arent obliged to do any more if it is covered by warranty.

It's a yard but they have their own workshop and have been up front about everything so far, they could have just given it to me as is and told me that's how they run etc.

Maybe they will just do that so I guess it depends on what caused that in the first place eh? I'll be asking about the cause too, at this stage i'm more concerned about what else might be stuffed on there. Been trying to read about why they might fail eh, bad oil/ wrong oil/ not enough oil/ overheating/ dirt in the chamber etc.

If it's just one cylinder and they hone it and replace piston/ rings, is that alright?

I think i'll ask for the readings for all 6 cyls and see if they are just gonna do 1 or however many or them all so it's even.

Bollocks, now i'm worried it's been abused a lot and it might be one thing after another...

awhiteone Enthusiast

awhiteone

Posted
  • Author
Posted
So is the "rebuilt" stock turbo now containing steel wheels?

No-one would rebuild it and put ceramic wheels back in there.

I would really hope not... I'll ask about that too. Is this obvious/ visible without taking the turbo off completely?

awhiteone Enthusiast

awhiteone

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So it's cylinders 1 and 5 that have damaged rings and pistons. Mechanic reckons it's just been overheated at some point.

Would the cylinder numbers indicate a particular problem?

Getting the head checked and fixed next.

What can I do to prevent similar in future... I'm obviously going to take better care than the last guy but given that I live in sunny central Queensland should I be looking at anything to improve the cooling system?

Would it be related to the fact that there could be something wrong with the engine coolling?

Could running an FMIC or R34 GTT SMIC help precent this in future if say I wanted to drive it in a spirited manner occasionally? :-)

t_revz Grand Master

t_revz

Posted
Posted
So it's cylinders 1 and 5 that have damaged rings and pistons. Mechanic reckons it's just been overheated at some point.

Would the cylinder numbers indicate a particular problem?

Getting the head checked and fixed next.

What can I do to prevent similar in future... I'm obviously going to take better care than the last guy but given that I live in sunny central Queensland should I be looking at anything to improve the cooling system?

Would it be related to the fact that there could be something wrong with the engine coolling?

Could running an FMIC or R34 GTT SMIC help precent this in future if say I wanted to drive it in a spirited manner occasionally? :-)

a good fuel system is a step in the right direction, as for cooling i never used to get more than couple degrees warmer when giving it some even around the track except when it dropped its coolant out the tell-tale hole when it was parked once. but up to you if you want more piece of mind. if it was 1and6 or 3and4 maybe 1and5 prob nothing in it.

nuclear_skyline Mentor

nuclear_skyline

Posted
Posted
It's a yard but they have their own workshop and have been up front about everything so far, they could have just given it to me as is and told me that's how they run etc.

Maybe they will just do that so I guess it depends on what caused that in the first place eh? I'll be asking about the cause too, at this stage i'm more concerned about what else might be stuffed on there. Been trying to read about why they might fail eh, bad oil/ wrong oil/ not enough oil/ overheating/ dirt in the chamber etc.

If it's just one cylinder and they hone it and replace piston/ rings, is that alright?

I think i'll ask for the readings for all 6 cyls and see if they are just gonna do 1 or however many or them all so it's even.

Bollocks, now i'm worried it's been abused a lot and it might be one thing after another...

Have you already bought this car? If you've only put a deposit down I would walk away at this point.

awhiteone Enthusiast

awhiteone

Posted
  • Author
Posted
a good fuel system is a step in the right direction, as for cooling i never used to get more than couple degrees warmer when giving it some even around the track except when it dropped its coolant out the tell-tale hole when it was parked once. but up to you if you want more piece of mind. if it was 1and6 or 3and4 maybe 1and5 prob nothing in it.

Thanks. I'm still puzzled as to how the dude managed to do it if it's not obviously crap getting into the cyinders. Been discussing with someone else and the possibility of it being overboosted at some point is also a consideration.

awhiteone Enthusiast

awhiteone

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Have you already bought this car? If you've only put a deposit down I would walk away at this point.

This has gone through my mind but I'm also thinking if they've had this good a look at the motor then I'll probably have the best history of the car I could hope for and I get something with a rebuilt engine that will last me a good while.

Bunta Grand Master

Bunta

Posted
Posted

can you tell us the name of the car yard? Pm if you like. If its who I think it is I have a tale to tell you that should have you walking away quick smart!

nuclear_skyline Mentor

nuclear_skyline

Posted
Posted
This has gone through my mind but I'm also thinking if they've had this good a look at the motor then I'll probably have the best history of the car I could hope for and I get something with a rebuilt engine that will last me a good while.

Lol - you think a car yard trying to sell you an import is going to rebuild an engine that is going to ast you a while considering you're on a tight budget. Lol... Take the advice of people who have been there an done that - walk away from it! Seriously, you dont sound too mechanically inclined or knowledgable so I would walk or run as fast as you can...

Then again, buy it and we'll all have something to shake our heads at when you're back asking similar questions when it let goes in a couple of months time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...